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Practical 
Instruction 



How to Alter Ill-Fitting 
Garments and How to 
Handle Try-Ons 



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Book 'J*** 

CopyiigtaK? 



COPYRIGHT DLPOSm 



Practical Instruction 



How to Alter Ill-Fitting- Garments and 
How to Handle Try-Ons 



Showing Illustrations How to Avoid Faults 
From the Beginning 



PRICE, $5.00 



By 

WM. LEHMANN 

CHICAGO 



Cuts and Reading Matter 

Copyright, 1919 

By 

Wm. Lehmann, Chicago 

U. S. and Canada- - 



©CtA5a5381 

MM -2 1919 






I9-W1 



Preface 

I am convinced that this book, giving correct instructions 
how to alter ill-fitting garments, will only be consulted if my 
colleague is confronted with a misfit, which only leaves him the 
alternative of a correct and thorough alteration. 

"Clothes make the man," but very often extensive altera- 
tions are essential before they fulfill this mission. 

I might compare a garment, which needs alteration, with a 
patient seeking relief in the operating room. Sometimes the 
cure will be successful, but often hopes are not realized. 

The causes which make faults appear are numerous and 
very different. Right at the start mistakes are made, either by 
not taking the correct measurements or careless drafting of 
the model, or by not using a dependable system, resulting natur- 
ally in a faulty cut. If, after trying on the garment, it is not 
altered in the right way, it need not surprise anybody if the 
ready garment does not fit. On the other hand, a garment 
measured and cut correctly might not fit if the tailoring does 
not conform with the cut. 

The purpose of this book is to show how to make altera- 
tions in a successful and very simple manner. And my col- 
leagues will judge its value according to the practical advan- 
tage which they will derive from it. A tailor of many years' 
experience will find nothing particularly new, but a beginner 
and less experienced tailor will find valuable instructions re- 
garding the most difficult alterations. It requires a careful 
study to become an expert in the tailoring line. Very often it 
is entirely wrong to correct a fault where it shows. The cor- 
rection has to be made in an indirect way and in such a case it 
is very important to know exactly how the fault originated. 
Furthermore, this book will show that often an alteration must 
be succeeded by another one to get the desired result. If the 
proportion of one part to another is changed, this change must 
conform with the other parts, in order that a fault corrected 



in one place does not appear at another. Very often this is not 
given due consideration. 

The purpose of this book is a double one. 

It shall serve not only as an instructor for unavoidable 
alterations, but also direct the attention of the reader to the 
cause of the fault, and will give information which will avoid 
mistakes for the future. 

In the same sense cases will be explained even though an 
alteration is impossible. 

To accomplish this it is necessary to show, by illustrating 
the ill-fitting garments and how to change the cut, in which 
way an alteration can be made in a most simple and successful 
manner. Every tailor knows from experience that this is very 
valuable, as through incorrect alterations a garment which 
otherwise might be saved will be spoiled entirely. 

Therefore, this book should be of especial interest, enter- 
ing an entirely new field; namely, the alteration of ill-fitting 
garments. 

Nevertheless, my instructions can be consulted not only 
when the garment is ready, but also after trying on if irregu- 
larities should show in the fit. 

If the instructions are used accordingly, every colleague 
will see its advantage, as it will enable him in time to avoid mis- 
takes and resulting alterations. Every tailor knows from ex- 
perience what he will save on time and money. 

The book illustrates the most common faults in overcoats, 
coats, vests and pants. 

Certainly it does not exhaust all alterations, which would 
run into hundreds, even thousands, but which in general can be 
traced back to certain points and changed accordingly. 

I close with the wish that the possessor of this book will 
not often have occasion to use it, as the less ill-fitting garments 
he has to alter the better it is for him. But I hope whoever is 
compelled to use it, will derive great benefit from it. 



The Cutting 



This chapter is not supposed to be devoted to a discussion of 
many cutting systems, but shall explain several simple cutting- 
rules, which many cutters and tailors do not deem necessary to 
take into consideration. The question as to whether the direct 
or the indirect cutting systems are the best will not be discussed 
in this chapter. This dispute will probably not be decided 
easily, as each expert always believes his system the best and 
infallible on account of his familiarity with it and his success in 
business, which he ascribes to the use of it. Certainly, if you 
consider it from this viewpoint, everyone is right. 

In fact, it is immaterial if a model is produced with the help 
of trigonometry, geometry, etc., or the proportion. The main 
thing always is that a correct cut be effected. If, then, the work- 
manship is correct (such as the cut requires), the result will be 
a well fitting garment. 

Why is it that although nowadays the art of cutting is highly 
developed, always more mistakes occur than one would think 
possible f Toa large degree it will be found due to the fact that 
many cutters are attentive only when cutting, but are superficial 
in the shaping and in workmanship. I will explain in the fol- 
lowing part, that my assertions are correct. 

Every expert knows, that careless or bad workmanship will 
spoil the best cut. Now, one should think, that the knowledge of 
this fact should cause each expert or cutter to instruct the tailor 
in a necessary and correct way regarding the shaping of the cut, 
so that no faults occur. It is to be regretted, that this is not 
always the case, as many of my colleagues think they have done 
their duty if the piece is cut out. But also, when cutting, one 
often will be careless. For instance, you see chalkmarks of 
about 3/8 of an inch on the separate parts, so that the tailor 
sometimes does not know where to put the stitches for the out- 
let ; in front, in the center or behind the chalk. Notches for the 
putting together of the separate parts (Figs. 3, 5 and 6 show 
same in little cross lines) will be made very seldom, so that the 
tailor is at a loss to understand, and will in a case like this, as a 



rule, baste or sew on the different parts in such a way, that the 
result will be a good run in the armhole. If an extra seam in the 
armhole is not added, on the model at the blade and at the front 
part, the back part will come out of its right place compared 
with the front part. Figures 1 and 2 give very plainly the proof 
for this assertion. Figures 1 and 2, full lines, show the correctly 
cut separate parts of the model put together in such a way. 
Figure 1 shows the seams which have to be sewed in, at the blade 
towards the armhole and at the front part, at the side seam, also 
in the armhole. Also the combination points are especially 
marked here with short cross lines. If one now sews the parts 




together according to these marks, back and side parts will move 
in a horizontal direction and just as much as the seams required. 
Side and back part, however, will retain the same height as 
before (see the dotted lines in Fig. 1). It will be different if 
the previously described seams, which must be added at the 
front and side part in the armhole, are not there, and also no 
mark for the sewing together. In this case only the run in the 
armhole has to be considered as a standard. 

If this is the only mark for the sewing together, the position 
of the side part and back part compared with the front part 
will be displaced and will extend too deep and too wide towards 
the back. 



The dotted lines in Figure 2 show the displacement, not only 
of the entire back part but also (as the combination points have 
been placed as a proof) of the separate parts. A coat put to- 
gether in such a way will be about one inch too short at the top, 
and consequently will fall down the neck. Besides in the arm- 
hole diameter towards the back it will be too large ; across the 
back too wide ; and below in the waist too long. It also will be 
too tight at this place. 

This will show how little mistakes, when cutting, can cause 
much damage. The combination marks are also of considerable 
importance if, when the cutter is rushed, the separate parts in 
their end points are not correctly marked or cut. Despite this, 




the parts will come together in their right position and should 
the armhole be uneven, this can be equalized easily by utilizing 
the outlet. It is self -understood that these marks are necessary 
for putting together the back and front part of coats and over- 
coats. The sleeve in many cases is neglected, too. The cutter 
will, instead of cutting out the undersleeve himself, with only a 
few exceptions, add a piece of goods and leave the cutting of the 
undersleeve to the tailor. If the undersleeve would be marked 
at the top sleeve, the careful tailor would have a mark how to 
cut it, but without this he is compelled to cut the undersleeve 
according to his own judgment, which will only be correct in a 
few cases. Then is it a wonder if such a sleeve does not fit, and 
in many cases spoils the entire garment ? 



With the collar it will be similar. Only a very few tailors 
understand how to cut a correct fitting collar, therefore there 
should be added to each piece a correct and accurately cut collar 
model. But this is very seldom done. Much aggravation, 
trouble and time could be saved if there is a well fitting collar 
on the garment, as it scarcely can be believed how many faults 
an incorrect collar can cause. 

Therefore be very careful when cutting the garment to in- 
struct the tailor in everything which he must know and make it 
a standard rule not to permit the tailor to cut important parts, 
as he very seldom will possess the necessary knowledge. 

The sacrifice on time is small compared with the faults which 
are caused by superficial workmanship, • so that every cutter 
should not omit to do the necessary work himself. 




The Outlets 



Even if applying all previous rules 
carefully, alterations will always be neces- 
sary, as nobody is infallible ; not even the 
most conscientious tailor. Therefore, 
when tailoring according to measure, out- 
lets will always have to be recommended, 
as they will make it possible to correct a 
faulty garment. 

Even if one supposes, that every tailor 
knows on what places he has to leave out- 
lets, it will do no harm to give some ex- 
planations. First, to explain the value 
and the purpose of certain outlets; and 
second, to prove that the outlets indicated 
on Figures 3 to 8 (with dotted lines) are 
sufficient in every case. At the back part, 
Figure 3, one will find outlets in the neck- 
hole, at the center seam, on both sides of 
the back skirts and at the armhole. The 
outlet at the neck hole will appear too 
small, but will be entirely sufficient, for its 
purpose is only to equalize the neck hole 
and a precaution for raveling goods. 

For setting the collar higher it only 
should be used, if necessary, for the regu- 
lation of the neck hole, and not more than 
about one-half inch. To correct a coat 
which pulls down at the neck, by setting 
the collar about one inch higher is entirely 
wrong, as this fault has to be remedied in 
another way. Many will consider the out- 
let at the armhole unnecessary, as for an 
eventual widening of the back the out- 
let in the center seam could be used. This 
may be the case once in a while, but not 




3. 






always. Furthermore, it should be considered, that the back 
part must be corrected again, which will cause unnecessary 
work, that should be avoided when altering. 

The outlet at the armhole is also of advantage, because even- 
tual deficiencies, which the armhole rounding might show, could 
be adjusted. It is never a disadvantage, but is often of great 
advantage for several alterations. This will be explained later 
on. 




Outlets shown at the front part, Figure 5, are well known to 
every tailor, therefore it will be unnecessary to mention them 
here. 

The outlet in front at the breast-edge is not necessary except 
on coats with revers. 

To be safe with other garments, one has to cut the button 
stand a little wider. To add about one to two inches more in 
front of the outlet will only be necessary if the cut is very faulty. 



10 



At the side part, Figure 6, outlet is only left in the armhole 
and in the waist seam. To place an outlet at the back seam is of 
no purpose ; it will only draw. If the seam has been sewed and 
pressed already and one would then let out the outlet, the old 
seam always would appear again. Only a very simple customer 
would not object to this. If the coat must be made larger, the 
outlet at the front part has to be used. Even if the old seam 
would show a little, this would not matter very much, as the 
sleeve would cover this. 




■7. 



It should be mentioned here, also, that the side part must be 
cut as wide as possible, so that the seam does not appear in a 
conspicuous way. 

Every tailor will know how much outlet is necessary for the 
skirt. This is plainly shown on Figure 7. 

Eegarding an eventual addition at the lower edge, see the 
directions in connection with the back skirt. 

li 



The undersleeve, Figure 8, has only outlet at the front seam. 
To place an outlet at the back seam is not recommended. If one 
would enlarge a sleeve by letting out the outlet at the back seam, 

this seam would turn too far on top of 
the arm. However, it is different if the 
sleeve is enlarged by letting out the out- 
let at the front seam of the undersleeve. 
In this case the seam will also turn a 
little more to the front, but as the un- 
dersleeve is always cut about 2 to VA 
inches smaller than the topsleeve, the 
front seam will lay originally under the 
arm. If the just described outlet had 
to be let out entirely, as in exceptional 
cases, the seam will not extend over the 
front center, but always to the inside, 
and therefore will not spoil the looks of 
the sleeve. 

The latter instance would be the case 
if the extension would be made at the 
back seam. I do not think it has to be 
emphasized especially that the turnup 
shall not be too small (on top and under- 
sleeve) and if the sleeve is made with 
an open vent, a button stand has to be 
added to it at the undersleeve. 
8 The foregoing explains what kind of 

outlets are efficient on coats and overcoats, but one should be 
careful to give these an outlet in the back part at the armhole. 

Also a rather large turnup below at the front and back part 
would be of advantage. 

If the goods is wiry and hard finished, the seams, which have 
an outlet, should be sewed together by hand, not by machine. 
Otherwise, if let out, the old seam would be visible again. There 
is no danger of this if the goods is rough and soft. The pressing 
of the outlet seams has to be done very carefully. The same 
must not be pressed against the nap, or too hard. Neither must 




12 



it be scorched, because in none of these cases can the outlet be 
used again, without being noticed. 



The Judging of the Faults and 

What Has to be Done to 

Remedy Them 

All alterations must be made very carefully, and above all 
it has to be defined first what caused the fault ; either an incor- 
rect cut or faulty workmanship. This is not as easy as usually 
is supposed. In most cases a fault will not show at the seat of 
the trouble, but at an entirely different place. 

Therefore an alteration should not be made at the place 
where the fault shows, unless one is convinced that it originated 
at that place. A garment is not always too wide or too long 
where superfluous length or width appears to be. The same 
might have originated in being too narrow or too short in an- 
other place. Pressure and uncomf ortableness, especially in the 
front part of the armhole, cannot always be removed by cutting, 
but more correctly by letting out at another place. In this case 
especially much damage is done, as many tailors do not know 
any other way than cutting out the armhole. 

Only the expert will never err. A less skilled tailor will be 
deceived by appearance and alter the garment at the place where 
it does not seem to fit. Such an alteration, made without ex- 
perience and in an optimistic way, will always result in worse 
faults than before. These cause renewed corrections, which 
make the fit of the garment questionable, although several alter- 
ations have been made. 

Therefore it must be urged again to first define the cause of 
a fault before altering. A wrong alteration will spoil the gar- 
ment entirely. 

The faults on a garment show in a different way, and as 
already mentioned before, very often at an entirely opposite 
place. In most cases they show through the appearance of 
wrinkles or through tightness at several places. The latter is 

13 



hard to discover, but the pressure and uncomf ortableness will 
be noticed by the customer when wearing the garment. 

Wrinkles which run straight and perpendicular are the 
result of a too extensive width. To remove these wrinkles is 
easy. It cannot always be said that they are faults. This is a 
matter of taste, and a rather wide made garment can neverthe- 
less be ' ' chic ' \ The better clientage and the tailors serving them 
know this very well. 

It is more difficult to correct cross wrinkles, and one has to 
be very careful when doing away with those of a "too much." 
Many an expert has and will be deceived by altering in too large 
a degree. As a natural consequence the fault will show at an 
opposite place. 

The worst faults are bias wrinkles. The cause is mostly an 
incorrect proportion of the front and back length. I will 
explain this in later chapters. 

It is extraordinarily important for a careful tailor to judge 
those faults correctly which result through tightness. These are 
not evident, but are the cause of faults which nearly always show 
as superfluous width at an opposite place. 

Usually these faults originate by clumsy altering after the 
trying on, and can only be removed if outlet is there and the 
same is not scorched. The best way will be to rip open the part 
which is uncomfortable and too tight (padding and lining also), 
and then to look up the cause. 

All alterations must be done in such a way that the collar, 
lapels and the neck hole remain untouched. It is a well known 
fact that alterations of collar, lapels and neck hole nearly always 
spoil the shape, and the looks of the entire garment will be 
spoiled. This damage can very seldom be made good. 

I will endeavor to show by the following illustrations that it 
is Yery important that alterations should be made wherever pos- 
sible without touching the collar. Of course, there are cases 
where the trouble is due to a faulty collar itself. 

After this introduction I will discuss several cases, which 
will be illustrated on skirt coats, coat and overcoat in a buttoned 
condition, which always show the faults most plainly. 

14 



Coats and Overcoats 

I. Back Shouldek Too Shokt. 

Figures 9 and 10 show these faults very plainly. Figure 9 
shows the coat unbuttoned. The collar fits well, but the front 
parts separate and drop to the back. The coat, from the back 





shoulder down, stands off the body and the skirt laps over. The 
coat, so to say, does not fit close to the waist. 

When the coat is buttoned, the collar is loose around the 
neck and it shows wrinkles up from the side of the waist to the 
shoulders. (See Fig. 10.) If the coat is pulled down in order 
to remove wrinkles, the collar will come too low, and the back 
part will be too short in the neck and too long at the bottom. 
Consequently the coat will be all right in the waist but the skirts 



15 



will drop apart. In front the coat moves up and stands away 
from the neck and the skirts cross too much in front. Very 
often the coat is too tight across the breast. (See Fig. 11.) 

These are the evident faults, but the in- 
visible faults are there, too. The garment is 
uncomfortable, which only the wearer will 
notice. It pinches in front of the armhole 
and shoulder because the front part will be 
drawn down through the back part, and con- 
sequently lays too tight on shoulder and 
arm. If one supposed the necessary outlet 
is there and moved up the collar as much as 
required, about one inch; let out the outlet 
on the skirt and took off the unnecessary 
goods in the front, apparently the fault 
would be remedied. The garment, however, 
would not look very good and remain uncom- 
fortable. It will lose in looks, not only by 
the waist seam being too high in front and 
too low in the back (skirt garments, etc.), 
but the figure will also have a sloping shoul- 
der effect, because the shoulder seam will 
come too much to the back and the back part 
will be narrower at the neck, by setting the 
collar higher about 1M to VA inches. 




11. 



Despite this alteration the pressure at the armhole and at the 
shoulder will not disappear. 

If one will remedy this by cutting out the armhole in front, 
the garment will be too wide in the back — on the blade — and the 
fullness will have to be taken in. By doing this the coat will be 
too small, mostly across the breast, and the garment would be 
half spoiled. The altering will not only cause much work, be- 
cause the collar has to be ripped off and made shorter, but the 
looks of the lapels will be spoiled, too. 

If one supposed that by putting the collar higher the back 
neck increases so considerably, every good tailor should ask him- 
self the question: "Is it possible that I made such a mistake 



10 



when taking the measure of the customer that the length of the 
waist is one inch too short?" By being a little thoughtful he 
would know that the alteration, which I just described, cannot be 
right. Should the fault be due to the fact that the upper back 
part is a trifle too short, that does not prove that the length of 
the back is too short. 




12. 



The length is correct, one can see that, because, the faulty 
coat shows what is missing at the top is too long at the bottom. 
That means that the length of the back is not distributed in the 
right dimensions ; above the breast line not enough ; below the 
breast line too much. This mistake happens often because the 
cutter was not careful enough and omitted to mark the notches 
in front, side and back parts. In consequence of this, the parts 
are not in their right place. I illustrated this in Figure 2, in 
the first part of this book — The Cutting. This fault can be 
altered in the following way : Turn to Figure 12. Rip open the 



17 




skirt seam from (d) to (c), also the seam under the arm from 
(al) to (bl) and the armhole seam from a little before (al) 
to (f ) . The side part has to be moved upward as much as the 

collar is ! too low when the coat is 
pulled down smooth. In this case it 
is one inch, so that the marks (a2) 
and (bl) of the side body close to 
(al) and (b2) of the front part will 
come together. After sewing together 
front and side part, the armhole will 
be equalized by taking off the uneven 
cloth on the side part or, if by doing 
this the armhole will be cut out too 
much, letting out the outlet in the 
front part. In the waist line, as a 
rule, only the front part has to be al- 
tered by taking away the protruding 
part from (b2) to (c). Should, by 
doing this, the skirt seam become 
too hollow and sag in a bad looking way, a part of the outlet 
below (bl) must be let out, about half of the part moved up and 
the front part near (b-2) must be shortened only as much as is 
necessary. Should the skirt still be too wide in the back, the 
change will have to be made in the pleat. 

By moving up the side part the armhole will be larger and 
outlet on under arm must be let out in order to enlarge the 
sleeve. Only in a few cases will one have to take off on the blade. 
It is understood that the lining and padding must be taken care 
of at the same time. I mention this, although every tailor will 
know this. 

It is easy to remedy this, using this simple alteration, which 
can be done in a short time and without any danger. Coats and 
overcoats, when open, show the same faults as coats with a skirt. 
But if those are fully buttoned and pulled down in the back, to 
avoid the sloping wrinkles, the faults will show in a different 
way. The collar also is too low in the back, but inasmuch as the 
coat is not open on the bottom, the back part cannot move down, 



is 



is tight across the seat and shows horizontal wrinkles in the 
waist (see Fig. 13). 

On an overcoat it will show in a different way. The vent will 




spread and the cross wrinkles will disappear to a certain degree. 

The alteration has to be made in the same way as the coat 

mentioned before, but the moving up of the back part must be 

done in the side seam (see Fig. 14). In case there is enough 



19 



turnup on the edge of the back part, this turnup must be let out, 

which would always be better than to shorten the front part 

across the bottom. __ ' „ _ _ 

II. Front Shoulders Too Long. 

The effect of this is, when the coat 
is unbuttoned (see Fig. 9), the same 
as with a too short back shoulder. 
Here the buttoned coat shows another 
figure, because the front shoulder is 
proportionately too long. It will fit 
all right in the back, but the front 
edge will show up longer, only show- 
ing on the breast and lapel. The col- 
lar will fit close and be high enough 
(see Fig. 15). 

To define exactly how much the 
front shoulder is too long, make a 
pleat across the breast from one arm- 
hole to the other, which will define the 
degree of the alteration. According 
to the width of the pleat, the alter- 
ation has to be done in the same way 
as demonstrated in the preceding part 
on Figure 12. 
In this case the back part is not moved up, only the front is 
moved down, so the protruding part at the side of the arnmole 
must not be taken away. However, the outlet in the front part 
of the armhole at (al) must be let out, in order to give the arm- 
hole a good form. Regarding the other alterations, on the waist 
line, skirt, sleeve, etc., see description in Part I. 

If after this alteration the skirt seam should be too low in 
front, this would not matter much, only the unnecessary front 
length at the bottom of the skirt will have to be taken away 
towards the back. This is because the front part cannot be 
shortened in the waist, as the distance of the button holes would 
be uneven. 

If after this alteration it should develop that the armhole is 




20 



too low, things will be more critical. If the cloth permits piec- 
ing, without being noticed, the fault will be easily remedied. 
But if one is not able to do this, then the front shoulder must be 
shortened straight across, as much as necessary. Certainly the 
alteration in the back seam of the side body and in the waist 
seam must be omitted. An alteration of this kind will require 
more work, because collar and sleeve have to be removed. If the 
lapel shall retain its style, other alterations must be made. The 
neck hole must be made deeper, the lapels shortened, and the 
collar must conform with the new neck hole. All this is only 
possible if the lapel button hole is not too close to the gorge, 
otherwise the lapel must remain unchanged. 

One can also make the alteration so that the front part will 
only be half lowered and the surplus goods will be taken away 
from the top of the shoulder, although this will be a more diffi- 
cult alteration than by only shortening the front shoulder. Such 
a complicated change will only be recommended when through 
this the piecing under the armhole can be omitted and the lapels 
will remain as before. 

Coats and overcoats will show the same fault and should be 
altered as in Figure 14. The back part remains unchanged, but 
the outlet in the armhole of the front part at (al) must be let 
out. The surplus length in the front part below must be evenly 
taken away up to the front edge, if the location of the pockets 
permit this; otherwise it is more advantageous to let out the 
turnup across at the bottom of the back part. 

III. Back Shoulder Too Long. 

The following two cases are the opposite of the previously 
described. The faults of a back shoulder too long will show on 
Figure 16. The whole back seems too full, almost puffed up. 
The coat fits good at the collar and at the waist line, but here 
often so tight that cross wrinkles form from the waist buttons 
upward to the armhole. The coat spreads apart. However, the 
coat fits well in front, but often as a continuance of the cross 
wrinkles, a small wrinkle before the armhole will be noticed and 
a slight pressure will result in front of the armhole. 

21 



Very often the puffed back will be misjudged and what is too 
much in length will be taken as too much in width, because the 
side and shoulder seams hang away from the body. If the side 

part is taken in, extending to the 
waist button and the shoulder from 
the armhole to the neck hole, then the 
alteration is made in the wrong 
place. Through this wrong alteration 
the diameter of the armhole has be- 
come too small, the wrinkle will be en- 
larged, and the pressure at the front 
part of the armhole will be greater. 

As a rule, to remedy this the arm- 
hole will have to be cleared out in 
front and cut deeper. Consequently 
the breast will be too narrow and the 
coat too tight at the breast measure. 
In most cases this cannot be remedied 
any more successfully. This can only 
be changed if the back part is short- 
ened. 

The best way to make sure is to 
fold a pleat across the back from one 
armhole to the other, as wide as necessary to get the right posi- 
tion of the coat. After pinning the pleat one can see how much 
is necessary to shorten the back part. 

Figure 17 shows plainly how to do away with this fault with- 
out much work. 

The alteration has to be made in the neck hole and on the 
shoulder. After the seams (e, f, g, h) are ripped, the back part 
in the neck hole and at the shoulder has to be cut down compar- 
ing with the pleat. In order that the back and the shoulder will 
retain their original width, the back must not become smaller, 
otherwise the front shoulder at the armhole would also have to 
be made smaller. As much as necessary of the outlet of the back 
must be let out in the armhole. 

Here will show for the first time the advantage of this pre- 




22 



caution. If through this alteration the back part looks too 
small at the armhole, the part which has to be removed must be 
taken away one-half in the back part and the other half at the 





19. 



, 20. 



front part shoulder, extending to the neck hole (see the marked 
lines in Figure 17). 

If one wants the width of the back on the armhole to remain 
as wide as before, everything in the front must be taken away. 
In each case the back part in the neck must stay as wide as 
before. 

A similar fault, occurring very often on square-shouldered 
persons, will be mentioned here at the same time. 

There are little cross wrinkles close below the collar from one 
shoulder to the other. See Figure 18 for this alteration. Inas- 
much as the surplus length will only be noticed above the middle 



24 



of the back, the back shoulder should not be made shorter, but 
only the back neck extending to the armhole should be shortened 
comparing with the wrinkles. Also the back part in the neck 
hole must remain as wide as it was before. If the back part of 
a coat and overcoat is too long, cross wrinkles will show at the 
middle of the waist ; also by sloping wrinkles from the armhole 
to the waist. The coat will also be too tight across the seat. The 
long overcoat will pinch below the seat in the knee and the vent 
will part. The front parts will come too much to the front ; the 
lower part of the skirts stand off too far from the knees and 
show too much flare in the front. (See Figures 19 and 20.) 

The change will also have to be made as with coat illustrated 
in Figures 17 and 18. 



IV. Front Shoulders Too Short. 

These faults are very evident in Figure 21. 

On the front parts very ugly sloping wrinkles show from 
neck hole to armhole. This presses in front and underneath the 
armhole. The coat is too tight across 
the breast, although it has the right 
width, because the width advances in 
a wrinkle to the armhole, and it will 
show too loose in the waist line. The 
skirts also cross each other too much. 
Also in most cases the waist seam in 
front is too high. The back view is 
the same as in Figure 16. 

Before one starts altering on that 
kind of a coat, it is advisable to make 
a thorough examination to find out if 
the collar is set on too short, because 
this also will cause the described 
fault; only in this case the shoulder 
is also too long in the armhole. If the 
coat fits tight there then it is a sure 
sign that the front shoulder is too 
short throughout. If one will pin a 




26 



pleat, as is done for a back part which is too long, one will see 
exactly how much the front shoulder must be lengthened. 

The proper way would be to let out the outlet in the shoulder, 




but in this case a new and longer collar would have to be made. 

In many cases there is not enough goods for a new top collar 
and therefore a new and simple way has to be found to fix up the 
coat, as follows: Rip the under arm seam] (al, bl) the skirt 
seam from (c) to (d) and the armhole seam t from (i) across 
(al) to (e) (see Figure 22), and move up the front part as 
much as necessary, meeting (bl) with (b2, a2) with (al). All 
there remains to be done is to cut out or to deepen the armhole 
and eventually to enlarge the sleeve. 

In the skirt seam leave out the outlet in the front part, ex- 
tending from (bl) to (c). If there is no outlet on hand, one is 
compelled to take the protruding part off the side to (d). See 
the marked part in figure. 



26 



This will often cause another fault, namely, the skirt will flap 
apart and show too much flare on the side. Figure 23 shows this 
alteration with punctured lines. 




But first convince yourself if this alteration is really neces- 
sary. An alteration is not necessary unless the coat showed too 
much skirt in the pleat before alteration. 

A coat or an overcoat with too short a front shoulder shows 
ugly cross wrinkles in front; is too tight across the breast; 
pinches in the armhole and is too loose at the bottom. The over- 
coat will flare in front like in Figure 20. The back view is like 
in Figure 19. 

A pleat across the back will show how much altering has to 
be done. Move the front part in the side seam upward the same 
amount, so that the marks (a2) and (al) and (bl) and (b2) 
correspond with each other. The front part of the blade, which 
will become deeper through this alteration, must be vertically 
below the original, which will make it necessary to take in the 

27 



same at the side seam of the front part. Otherwise the garment 
will be too wide in this place. The back part must be shortened 
below, whatever is necessary. This very simple altering is 
shown in Figure 24. 




24. 



V. Front Part Sagging Back On Account of Not Enough 
Height of the Shoulder. 

Figure 25 shows a very faulty coat. If the coat is unbut- 

28 



toned the collar fits closely, but the parts in front sag back very 
noticeably. 

This sagging back is not caused on account of the back part 
being too short, as the coat fits close in 
the back. That means the length in the 
back corresponds with the length in 
front. Consequently the sagging back 
does not show in the back, but flares are 
formed, beginning at the armhole and 
increasing farther down. These flares 
would show farther in the back under 
the arm, if the arms would not prevent 
this. But if the coat is buttoned, the 
collar stands off around the neck. Such 
a garment can be spoiled entirely if it is 
altered as its appearance indicates. 
Many will be of the opinion that this 
fault can be remedied in the most sim- 
ple and easiest way by shortening the 
strap as much as it seems to be neces- 
sary, and shortening the collar. This 
alteration is not only entirely wrong, 
but also very dangerous, as by doing 
this the entire garment can be spoiled. 

The cause of this misfit will have to be located somewhere 
else where it cannot easily be detected, because the coat fits 
smoothly at the armhole at the front shoulder. This is caused 
by being too anxious to have the coat fit well on the shoulder 
when trying on, and was due to too much taking in of the 
shoulder at the armhole. Every tailor can convince himself of 
the correctness of this illustration by doing as follows: Rip 
open the shoulder seams, Figure 26 (1-k) (without taking off 
the collar), and the sleeve (m-i) (also the padding and the lin- 
ing) . By this the upward part of the arm will be open and free. 

If the coat is then fitted again, one will see that the shoulder 
seam opens at the armhole to the same extent as the shoulder 
was taken in too much. If the sleeve now has the exact width 




29 



at the sleeve head and is loose enough, which is usually the case, 
one will see that the outlet on the shoulder seam (Figure 27, 
11-k) must be let out again. Notice, also, that now the coat does 




26. 



not sag back, and that the collar fits closely when the coat is 
buttoned. 

Through this very simple altering the fault will be remedied 
with little work and without any danger. Figure 28 will show 
how, by too much taking in of the shoulder seam at the armhole, 
the whole front part came out of its right place and had to sag 
back. Apparently the coat got too wide at the side seam and 
did not hug the waist. 

This is not the case, on the body, as mentioned before. The 
position of the back part is right, remains in its place and pre- 
vents the sagging back of the front part through the arms. 

Very often this fault is caused by padding the shoulder point 

30 




27. 




28. 
31 



too much. Should, however, the shoulder become unnaturally 
high, it is advisable to remove the superfluous padding. This 
refers also to coats and overcoats. 



VI. Collae Stands Off and Coat Hangs Back in the Waist. 

I will now get to the fault which 
is brought on by unreasonable alter- 
ing and fitting. The main cause of 
this is the desire to make the coat 
smooth and close fitting in the back. 

Figure 29 shows that when the 
coat is open, the collar will stand off 
around the neck, drawing the front 
parts backwards. Through this, ugly 
wrinkles form lengthwise at the 
breast and in front of the armhole, 
which pinches and feels uncomfort- 
able. Across the back the coat looks 
stretched and stands off in the waist. 
If buttoned, which can scarcely be ac- 
complished because the width of the 
breast was drawn back to the armhole 
in a wrinkle, the whole front part 
moves upwards; consequently the 
lapels show too long ; the collar will be 
drawn down still further in the back and the entire garment 
looks as if the back part is too short. 

All these irregularities are caused by too much taking in of 
the side seam. Through this the blade measure becomes too 
short, the diameter of the armhole too small, and the front parts 
with the collar are drawn to the back. This causes the wrinkles 
in front and the pressure in the armholes, resulting in a misfit 
coat. The back part has become too short by too much taking in. 
A cutter who will not examine this thoroughly might have a 
hard time and make wrong alterations. If one would try to 
remedy this by cutting out the armhole in front at the pinching 
part, remove the width in the waist by taking it in and set the 




32 



collar higher, the result would be a too narrow breast and the 
whole coat being too tight. The coat would be a total misfit. 
This can easily be altered if the front part has enough outlet 




30. 



in the underarm seam. Rip out the sleeve from (i) to (e) and 
the seams (a-b-d), also loosen the padding and the lining, so it 
will give you more space to work on. If the customer puts on 
the coat again one will see that the outlet of the front part must 
be let out below the arm, extending to the waist seam. The 
whole back part and the collar draws up towards the neck ; the 
ugly wrinkles on the breast and before the armhole disappear, 
and the garment will become comfortable and does not pinch 
any more. It shall be emphasized that the back part, too, will 
move a little higher, more than half of the widened part in the 
upper part of the armhole. It can only be determined when fit- 
ting, if the outlet below in the side part must be let out, extend- 
ing to (d), or if the front part must be shortened in the waist 
seam from (b) to (c). 



33 



If there is no outlet at the front part in the underarm seam, 
there is nothing else to be done but to put in a new side part. 

The position of the side and back part discussed before will 
show in Figure 30 with marked lines. As in most cases, the 
under sleeve is held in and the necessary widening can be easily 
accomplished ; but if there is not enough width, then the outlet 
on the front seam of the under sleeve must be let out as much as 
necessary. If such is not there, it will be necessary to piece the 
under sleeve. 

This alteration can be done in a short time and has the advan- 
tage that the front part remains untouched. 

I will mention here, especially, that in many cases the cause 
of a fault will be in another place than in the place where it 
seems to be. This could often be determined easily if one could 
imagine the smooth place ripped. If one has decided, that by 
opening of the seams in question the fault can be remedied, it 
will pay to try it, and one will see often that on the most smooth 
looking part the garment is too tight, because the seam will open 
a trifle and it will be seen that the outlet, if any, must be let out. 

This will put the separate pieces of the garment in the right 
place, through which the faulty coat can be brought in shape 
without altering in the place where the fault seems to be, an 
alteration which is very tedious and doubtful. 

What is said before refers also to coats and overcoats. 

VII. Insufficient Abdomen. 

Figure 31 shows a common fault. When the coat is buttoned, 
wrinkles will develop from the armhole to the stonlach, which 
by movements will draw upward ; the breast will be too wide ; 
the lapels and collar will be too long ; and the collar will lay too 
deep in the back. If the coat is opened at the lower button, until 
the wrinkles disappear, so that it fits closely in the neck and on 
the breast, it will droop back at the bottom and stand off the 
body in the side, even if the right width of the waist is there. 
But if it is too tight in the waist, it will also be too smooth in 
the sides. 

34 




These signs will show 
that the coat has not enough 
goods in front of the abdo- 
men. 

The following illustra- 
tion will show how to remedy 
this. 

If sufficient outlet is 
there, the proper change can 
be made when trying on, pro- 
viding the front edging is 
not yet finished and button- 
holes not made. 

For this purpose cut a 
newi coat model out of the 
original and add to it the 
missing part in the abdo- 
men: that means half as 




,32. 



33. 



35 




34. 




35. 



much as the parts drop apart 
when the lower buttons are 
opened. Also take off as 
much on the side, providing 
that the garment has the right 
width in the waist without the 
front addition. 

But if too tight in the 
waist, less must be taken 
away in the side. See Figure 
32 —.—.—.—. lines. Then 
place, as in Figure 33, which 
is now in right position and 
which is here marked with 
broken lines, at the original, 
which is marked in full lines, 
and you will see where and 
how much altering has to be 
done at the certain points. 
The neck point (k) must be 
placed more to the front, the 
shoulder extending to the 
armhole must be shortened 
and made smaller in the arm- 
hole at (1). The neck hole at 
(n) will be deeper and in or- 
der to regain the right front 
length the outlet in the waist 
at (c) must be let out, but at 
(b) as much must be taken 
away as was added at the arm- 
hole at (a) on top. What is 
lost at the edge of the breast 
must be replaced, extending 
from (a) to (b). The armhole 
in front and below remains 
unchanged. Then the trifle, 



3G 



about a quarter of an inch, which is cut out, need not be 
considered. 

In this way the front part will be righted without much work 
and the necessary abdomen will be produced. 

The change will be more difficult if the coat is finished. The 
fault can be remedied, but the work will be more difficult and re- 
quire more time. The coat has to be ripped almost entirely apart 
if front part has to be turned in order to get more abdomen. 

The alteration cannot be made, as illustrated before, and 
not quite as correct, because nothing on the front edge can be 
taken away on account of the button holes. In the waist seam 
nothing can be let out. 

To find out how to alter the front part, one should use the 
original and the altered model, but place them on top of each 
other like Figure 34 shows. 

In this way at (k) on the shoulder nothing will be wasted 
and at the front waist at (c) only little would have to be let out. 

For certain previously mentioned reasons the breast edge on 
the front part at the waist seam must remain untouched; the 
altering may only take place in the neck hole, on the shoulder 
and in the armhole, on the side and in the back part of the waist 
line seam, like Figure 35, with broken lines showing. 

The front part, by turning it in this way, becomes somewhat 
smaller in the neck hole at (n), but extending upward and down- 
ward the same becomes a trifle wider. This does not matter 
much, as the lapels only become slimmer, but on the waistline 
resetting of the buttons will be necessary. It will not always 
be necessary to make the neck hole deeper. This is only pos- 
sible, if the upper button hole is far enough from the gorge. 

In case the coat should not have the sufficient length in front, 
which wiill happen very seldom, the skirt in the back has to be 
shortened, extending to the front. 

The armhole is the most difficult part to change. One will see 
on Figs. 34 and 35 that it has to come higher, about Y\ inch. It 
has to be pieced from (i) to (a). This can easily be changed if 
the goods are suitable and the work done well, so that the cus- 
tomer does not notice it. Otherwise only the outlet in the back 

37 



of the armhole can be let out, as shown in Figure 35, with 
— . — . — . lines. The under sleeve will have to be cut out a little. 

Should, however, the armhole become too deep, which only 
can happen if it was too low before, only entirely new front 
parts will save the coat. 

Coats and overcoats show this fault very seldom. Should 
occasion arise, the front part will have to be turned the same as 
the coat. However, the alteration will only be successful if the 
surplus rounding on the front edge can be cut away, as otherwise 
the same would slope down. This is only possible when fitting, 
or on the ready made garments with fly fronts. 

VIII. Cross Wrinkles in the Back, Starting at the 

Armhole. 
It is a fact that small trifles cause much aggravation, but by 
studying them carefully it is very easy to change them. 

Figures 36 and 37, showing cross wrinkles, which begin at 





the armhole up to the highest point on the shoulder or also run- 
ning to the center of the back. 

As a rule they only show on coats and overcoats, rarely or not 
at all on skirt coats — mostly on square-shouldered or persons 
with a round back. 



38 



A little explanation will be necessary to show the cause of 
this fault. 

Square shoulders and a round back are heightenings on a 
human body. To give those bodies a good fitting garment, the 
workmanship must help along, the edges must be worked in 
more or less, either by cutting out the surplus goods, or by using 
(v), or if this is not possible, the parts must be worked in. 

The rounding of the back now coming in question, there will 
be a necessary shortening mostly extending to the armhole. On 
skirt garments this will be accomplished by cutting, as the bent 
form of the side seams of the back part and the side part and the 
position of both to each other already produces the effect of a 
V at the armhole and besides the concerning part touches the 
most protruding part on the back shoulder, so that the forming- 
produced in the garment corresponds with that on the body. 

Things are different with coat and overcoat. In these the 
back part is cut considerably wider, and consequently the side 

seam is farther removed from the high- 
est part. The side seams are also 
straighter, as on skirt coats. A shorten- 
ing extending to the armhole can prob- 
ably be accomplished, although by doing 
this the produced forming will not be in 
the right place ; that means, not where 
it should be. 

To conform the twlo, the shaping of 
the back part is necessary, which will 
have to be enlarged the wider the same 
is cut, and it will be necessary in a 
higher degree by very protruding shoul- 
der blades or a very round back. 

In shaping, the back part (Figure 

38, marked points) must be worked in 

as much as necessary in each case. The 

developed width can be put in the right place by pressing it 

there. 

Now the back part, mostly at the upper side seam, will be 




39 



held in well, but one must hold in same a little more in the arm- 
hole and in the lower part in the shoulder seam as on the skirt 
coat. Consequently the ready-made garment shows these illus- 
trated faults. Now I will show the described faults. If the 
wrinkle is short, only extending to the highest part of the shoul- 
der blade, then the fault will not cause much trouble. Rip out 
the armhole seam a little under the blade until a little over the 
shoulder seam, and same from below, about VA inches from the 
neck. 

Then the back part in the lower half shoulder seam must be 
held in one-half to two-thirds of the width of the wrinkle ; the 
balance in the armhole and the resulting width must be pressed 
in where the rounding on the back shows. 

But in case such is very protruding and consequently the 
wrinkle very large, so that the same cannot be removed entirely 
by working in the two previously mentioned places and no close- 
fitting armhole can be reached, there is nothing else to be done 
than padding it a little more. It is recommended in this case, 
because the rounding will look smaller. 

If the back part has outlet in the 
armhole it must be let out from the 
shoulder seam, running downward 
(Fig. 39) the marked line (e-f), so that 
the shoulder will not become too nar- 
row. If there is no outlet, or the front 
part of the shoulder is very wide, the 
extending part can be taken away. Cer- 
tainly the padding and the lining must 
be sewed in accordingly. 

If a wrinkle ends in the middle of 
the back (Fig. 37), the change must be 
made in another way. Here the cause 
is a very round back. 

Here the highest part is in the center 
of the back and therefore the back part 
in the center seam must be rounded. 
The form of the upper back part must be changed entirely. 




40 



If in such a case (when the garment is put on and before 
lining and padding are loosened) the back part (Fig. 39) from 
(e) to (f ) and (g) to (h) is ripped and is held on to the body in 
such a way that the wrinkle at the armhole disappears, so it will 
by itself move up from the shoulder and will stand off in the 
neck hole and in the middle of the back, a fold will develop, 
beginning at the neck hole and extending to the highest part of 
the rounding. 

This wrinkle has to be pinned down. Then lay the back part 
at the shoulder seam under the front part, in the neck hole under 
the collar, and also pin it down on these places. Now mark 
where and how much has to be taken off in the back part ; also 
the part of the fold which has to be taken off in the center of the 
back. It is recommended to make cross marks on the shoulder, 
on the places and in what degree the back part has to be held in. 
The armhole seam will be regulated, as illustrated before. When 
the back part is marked and two seams are added, if the upper 
laying parts are marked rawedged, then it will be formed like 
Figure 40, broken lines. 

In case the wrinkle at the armhole is 
not very large or the back part is too 
tight, so the fault can be remedied by let- 
ting out a little more in the center seam, 
the back extending up and down from 
the higher point, see the dotted line on 
Figure 41. By doing this the garment 
will fit closer at the armhole and will be 
more comfortable. If the back part is 
cut without center seam the wrinkle in 
the neck hole cannot be done away with 
by sewing. Figure 42, with broken lines, 
will show" how the change has to be made. 

The back part has to be cut away 
about one-half to two-thirds of the 
40 wrinkle (at the armhole) at (f) ; eventu- 

ally it must be let out a little in the outlet 
at the armhole and through this formed rounding must be 




41 



drawn in closely. The remaining is to be worked in at the 
armhole and the width caused on both places must be 
diverted to the center of the back. 

If it is n o t 

possible, in case 

the back is very 

rounded, to 

work in both 

places suffi- 
ciently to have 

a close fitting at 

the armhole, 

padding will 

remedy this. 

Before alter- 
ing in this way, 

it is advisable 

to examine 

thoroughly as to 

whether the 

fault in question has not another cause, because very often these 
wrinkles are caused by lining not properly sewed in. 

Therefore it is always advisable to loosen lining and padding, 
and after this to try on the garment. Then it can be judged 
surely how to alter this, and in many cases one will find that only 
the lining caused this fault. As previously said, both faults very 
seldom show on skirt garments, but if they ever should show, 
the change has to be made as illustrated. 




41. 




IX. Overcoat Showing Too Flat and Too Narrow Armhole 
and Collar Not Close Fitting. 

The preceding faults will show on coats and overcoats, but 
the following faults will only show on overcoats, on account of 
their peculiarity as top coats. 

Many colleagues will have had the experience that an over- 
coat, when the customer tries it on, will not move up ; that is, it 
will not fit close to the neck and will show a wrinkle across the 



42 



back, under the arms, towards the front armhole (Fig. 43). This 
will give the impression that the overcoat is too tight across the 
back. If drawn up by force, which will only be possible by pull- 
ing down the lower garment, it will be high enough, fit at the 
neck and fit good in general. But if the customer moves around 
for awhile the collar of the lower garment will show above. 

This fault is often misjudged and 
not correctly altered, if one attributes 
the fault to the overcoat. 

Despite the too deep laying collar, 
the back part is not too short, as 
proven by the cross wrinkle in the 
back. That it is not too narrow is 
proven by the fact that the overcoat 
has the right position in the waist 
and seat. This fault will show more 
when another garment is worn under 
the overcoat than while trying on. 

If after this the overcoat will fit 
well in all parts, then this is a sure 
sign that the fault is not on the same, 
but on the coat underneath, because 
on the latter the armholes are too 
deep and cut out too much. When 
the overcoat is pulled up so far that it 
lays high enough in the neck, the arm- 
hole will come higher than that of the 
garment worn below. If the customer, when walking, will throw 
his arms back and forward the result will be that, inasmuch as 
the overcoat has the right deepness in the armhole, the coat will 
be pushed up above the collar of the overcoat until the armholes 
are evened up. 

The right way would be to alter the garment under the over- 
coat, but as this wpuld cause much more trouble, there will be 
nothing else left but to alter the overcoat by deepening the arm- 
holes accordingly (see Figs. 44 and 45, i-e). 

This can be done by examining the wrinkle under the arm. 




43 



Across the back the same is often larger, but if one would deepen 
it accordingly the result would be that the armhole would be cut 
out deeper than actually necessary. This would have no bad 
consequences in regard to the fit of the overcoat. 




This will remedy the fault. The overcoat is easily put on and 
will at once go up high enough in the neck, and the collar will lay 
smoothly. The wrinkle will disappear. 

The sleeve must be changed, too, by cutting out the under- 
sleeve corresponding to the armhole. If by this alteration the 
sleeve should become too short, the outlet at the bottom must be 
let out as much as necessary. 

Now 1 1 will call your attention to a fault which is often in the 
overcoat itself. It is not necessary to use much padding on an 
overcoat, because the coat over which the overcoat is worn, as a 
rule, is already padded enough. 

If the overcoat is very much padded, it will be too tight on 

44 



the shoulder and can be pulled up only with difficulty, even if 
the deepness in the armholes conforms. Then the collar will 
stand off around the neck, as if the same were too long. Under 




the collar seam small cross wrinkles will show. In this case, as 
shown with + + + + lines on Figures 44 and 45, the shoulder 
of the overcoat from (1) to (k) must be let out or the super- 
fluous padding must be removed. 

It is necessary to make both previously described alterations 
if both faults — the cross wrinkle and the standing off of the 
collar — show. 



X. Faulty Skirt. 

The necessary requirements for a modern, elegant skirt are : 
Correct aplomb, a good formed waist seam and a close fit over 
the hips and seat, without wrinkles. 

45 



This can only be expected if the skirt is drafted direct from 
the front and side part according to the waist line and by con- 
sidering the width of the seat. To construct same by itself 




46 



(that is without directly using those parts) is not only wrong, 
but very uncertain, because its w|aist line would very seldom 
conform with the front part. Faults will result, which, if not 
seen when trying on and altered, will always be difficult to 
change when the garment is ready. I will not describe how to 
draft the skirt. I will only show* how frequent faults can be 
altered. 

To demonstrate this I will use the double-breasted Prince 
Albert, because the same, when buttoned, will show the faults 
on the skirts most evidently. The changes are marked with 
broken lines on the figures. 

The faults most easily to correct are the lapping over and the 
separating of the skirt in the back part or on the front edge, 
granted that otherwise the same fit faultlessly. In the first case 
the surplus on the skirt pleat has to be taken away in the pleat 
or from the front edge. In case the skirt separates in front or 
in the back, the missing goods must be replaced by letting out 
the skirt pleats ; that is, the front edge. 

46 



Very often one sees skirt coats showing both faults. They 
separate in the back, but in the front they lap over. Despite this 
the right width is there, as no tightness or ugly wrinkles appear. 




47 



If there is plenty outlet in the skirt pleat, so that the same can 
be let out as much as necessary, the fault can be easily corrected, 
only the surplus in the front has to be taken away. If there is 




48. 
47 



not enough outlet in the skirt pleats, nothing else can be done 
but to rip the skirt and to bring it up in the back as much as 
necessary. Consequently the skirt will be too short in the back 




40. 



and too long in front, so that it must be shortened from here, 
extending to the pleat. 

This alteration shows on Figure 46. 

Should the skirts lap over in the back, but separate in front, 
and in case there is not sufficient outlet available in front, they 
must be moved up in front accordingly. 

To equalize the length the lower edge from the pleat to the 
front must be shortened as much as necessary. Figure 47 makes 
this alteration clear. The shortening has to be done also at the 
back skirt. 

In both cases it is necessary that the waist seam of the skirt 
will have the exact form as before. The V has to be cut deeper 
accordingly. Very often one will notice that well fitting skirts 
show a cross wrinkle above the hips. The cause of this fault is 
too much rounding in the waist seam of the skirt compared with 
the front part. 

This pronounced rounding has to be taken away, more or 
less, according to the size of the cross wrinkle. See Figure 48. 

4S 



In case the skirts flare too much on the sides and separate in 
the pleat, although they fall correctly in front, the skirt has to be 
lifted up at the back, from the pleat where the flare starts. By 




.30. 



doing this the flare on the side disappears and wil] be diverted 
to the back, thereby replacing the missing part previously men- 
tioned. Should the pleat on the flare show too much width, it 




51. 
49 



certainly must be taken away. In case the skirts are correct in 
the back, although they separate in front, and flares on the sides 
are also there, an opposite alteration is necessary. The skirt 
beginning at the flare has to be moved up to the front as much 
as necessary. See Figure 50. If by doing this the skirt laps too 

much over in front, the front edges 
have to be corrected. 

Regarding shortening and regula- 
tion of the lower edge I refer to Fig- 
ures 46 and 47. 

It may happen that these two de- 
scribed faults show at the same time. 
In this case the flares on the side are 
larger and the skirts separate in the 
back and in front. Then the alter- 
ation has to be done as shown in Fig- 
ure 51. The skirt has to be moved up 
in front and in the back as much as 
necessary. Through this alteration 
the coat will lose some of its original 
length. 

The very evident faults shown on 
Figure 52 are also caused by an ill- 
fitting skirt. 

The same is too tight above the 
hips and the seat, which will be very 
evident through cross-wrinkles, beginning at the waist buttons. 
Also in many cases similar cross-wrinkles will show in front. 
Inasmuch as the skirt, on account of being too narrow, can- 
not come down over the hips, the front part above same will 
press together, resulting in small cross- wrinkles, but the skirt in 
the back and very often in front w T ill separate. Large hips and 
a large seat produce this fault very often, which is caused by in- 
sufficient Vs being provided for in the waist seam of the skirt. 

Many tailors do not think these necessary and believe they 
can accomplish the necessary rounding for hips and seat by 
holding in on the places in question, or by first shaping the skirt 




with irons above the hip and in the pleat. This is only possible 
if the hips are not very protruding and the seat is small. It is 
not advisable if same are larger, because the larger rounding 




53. 

that results must be taken care of more extensively, which can 
only be accomplished \^ith much work and if the goods are very 
soft. 

But even with these the fullness will come back if the gar- 
ment is worn for some time, and small wrinkles will appear in 
the skirt which do not beautify the garment. 

Now the alteration on Figure 52 will be described. 

The skirt must have the right width over the hip and seat, 
which has to be facilitated by letting out the pleat, even risking 
piecing the skirt. If this cannot be risked because the piecing 
shows too much, nothing else is left but to cut an entirely new 
skirt, if the customer will not stand for a shortening of the 
whole coat from 1 to 2 inches. By shortening this way, which 
must be done in the w(aist line, the fault in many cases will be 
averted without making a new skirt. Through letting out the 
pleat, the waist line in the skirt will become longer than that of 
the part above, but the excess must not be held in. It has to be 
removed by V's in order to bring the necessary width for hips 
and seat in the right place. 

51 



For larger alterations I might recommend making a paper 
pattern first, to make the changes on same, and to cut the faulty 
skirt accordingly. 




XI. Faults at the Akmhole 
and Sleeve. 

To the good points of a gar- 
ment there has to be also a com- 
fortable and good fitting sleeve as 
much as one can make it possible. 
To make this is one of the hardest 
tasks of the tailor, as in many 
cases the customer makes de- 
mands which cannot be fulfilled. 

There are mainly two faults 
for which the tailor always will 
be blamed. First, wrinkles show- 
ing in the back of the under 
sleeve when the arm is held dow^n 
(Fig. 54) . Second, when stretch- 
ing out the sleeve shows wrinkles 
and becomes a little shorter. 
(Figs. 55 and 56.) 




To make a sleeve without the first mentioned wrinkle is not 
very difficult. It only has to be formed to the back, as the lines 

52 



show from (e) to (f), and from (a) to (e) in Figure 58. 
But by stretching out the arm one would be very uncomfort- 
able because of the shortness between the full and the marked 




line. This length must be there in order to facilitate the move- 
ment of the arm to the front. 

Where the sleeve has to be very comfortable, as on outing 
and on driving coats, more length must be added on the top and 
under sleeve from 'V to "f " and from "e" to "b" across "a," 
as shown on Figure 57, with + + + + lines. Certainly you can- 
not figure on a good looking sleeve. 

The faults, which will show after the setting in of the sleeves, 
must logically be looked for at the armhole or sleeve. It is neces- 
sary to illustrate this. 

Scant armholes are uncomfortable, but it is the same case 
with too large ones, because the sleeve on these is very seldom 
cut, or can be cut, so that it would replace the missing in the 
armhole. This means especially the armholes which are cut out 
too much below or in the back on the side part. These have to be 
avoided especially. In both cases, in the first more than in the 
latter, the coat, when sitting down, will not only be pushed up 
and when lifting the arm wall be pulled up in the waist, but the 
sleeve also will be tight and uncomfortable in several places. It 
is also dangerous to cut out the armhole too much in front. 

53 



By this the coat will be too tight across the breast and will 
pull away from the body by moving the arms. If the sleeve is 
not cut very wide and full in front, the coat will keep its bad 
appearance. 

Very important is the forming of 
the sleeve in connection with the 
width and height of top sleeve and the 
cut out of the undersleeve. It is not 
the purpose of this book to demon- 
strate cutting systems, therefore the 
following demonstration will be re- 
served for points which must be ob- 
served when cutting. The circumfer- 
ence of the armhole is necessary for 
the width of the sleeve, the length, 
diameter of the ready armhole for 
the height of the top sleeve and the 
cut out of the under sleeve. Should 
the armhole be changed later in its 
circumference or its form, it is evi- 
dent that the sleeve also must be 
changed accordingly. 

The top sleeve will be influenced 
through the width of the front part 
shoulder. At present a small width 
of the shoulder is modern and the 
sleeve positions are made accordingly. 
In this case a higher top sleeve is re- 
quired. If the shoulder is wider, the same must be more flat- 
tened. Also in case the shoulder is artificially heightened, the 
head of the top sleeve must be made higher. Next to the correct 
and oblong form of the sleeve, it is very important how the 
sleeve is set in, as the appearance and the comfortable fitting of 
the entire garment depends very much on the correct position 
of the sleeves in the armhole. 

Therefore, the definition of the points of the armhole, where 




54 



the front and back middle of the sleeve have to be placed, is very 
important. 

First define the top sleeve notch. One will find the same by 




58. 



placing the sleeve on the front part, as in Figure 58, so that the 
hollow part of the under sleeve conforms to that of the armhoxe. 
The front center of the sleeve (b) should meet the front armhole 
and the entire sleeve should hang a little to the front. When the 
front middle of the armhole (c) is marked, then divide these 



55 



into half and receive the notch on the back part through point 
(d). Through this simple manipulation one will find the cor- 
rect notches for the sleeve, which only can be depended on if 
armhole and sleeve conform in width and height. 






61. 



This only refers to a normal figure, but if the figure is stoop- 
ing it will be necessary to place the sleeve in front about Va to V* 
inch higher, and in the back deeper accordingly. In the oppo- 
site case, if the figure is erect the sleeve must be put deeper in 
front and higher in the back. One will see, when the arm hangs 
down, whether the sleeve is correct and without fault. 

If the sleeve is too deep in front and set in too high in the 
back, cross-wrinkles will show at the armhole and at the elbow 
joint, and it will lay too tight at the wrist joint. Figure 59. 

If the sleeve is too high in front and too deep in the back, 

56 



diagonal wrinkles will show in the front and in the back, as on 

Figure 60, and it will lay too tight on the back of the wrist joint. 

Anybody can see at a glance how to make these alterations. 

If the sleeve fits correctly in 
front and back, despite this, 
L^^^r^ faults might show which can only 





62. 



be traced to an incorrect cutting of the sleeve. Figure 61 will 
show common faults of this kind. The unsightly diagonal 
wrinkles, which show on the upper arm, and the bending in of 
the shoulder, are the cause of a too flat sleeve head. If this is to 
be remedied, the entire sleeve has to be taken out and changed 
according to the marked lines in Figure 62, by taking off from 
the sleeve head at points (e) and (b) to (f), and deepening the 
undersleeve as much as is lost in height at (b) and (e). 

57 



The front and the back notch of the sleeve will be in the same 
place and below at the wrist same must be lengthened as much 
as was taken away at (e) and (b). 

Figure 63 also shows a very 
common fault. The under- 
sleeve is not sufficiently cut out 





65. 



in front, consequently it will be too long in front, and this sur- 
plus length will form ugly and uncomfortable cross wrinkles, 
which will extend in a diagonal direction at the top sleeve. Fig- 
ure 64, broken lines, will show how to change this. 

The undersleeve at (a) has to be deepened as much as neces- 
sary, gradually extending to both sides. 

The opposite case is less frequent and the undersleeve is cut 
out too much at (a). Then the top sleeve will be too long and 
cross wrinkles will show the whole length (see Fig. 65) . 



58 



This has to be changed according to Figure 66. After rip- 
ping out the entire sleeve, more or less has to be taken away at 
the top sleeve from (e) over (f ) to (b) according to the size of 
the wrinkles and the undersleeve must be changed accordingly, 
but so that nothing is lost at (a). For the setting in of the 
sleeve the original points in the armhole have to be taken as a 
standard, consequently a lengthening of the sleeve is neces- 
sary at the wrist joint. A too high head on a top sleeve shows 
wrinkles as on Figure 67. This can be remedied by flattening 
the head on the top sleeve at (f) to (e) and (b). (See Fig. 68.) 




In closing this chapter I call your attention to look very care- 
fully if the tailor put in the sleeve properly. For instance, a 

59 



displacing of the sleeve parts when sewing together will cause 
the sleeve to become twisted and show ugly wrinkles, although 
set in correctly. Also a too narrow or too short cut lining, or a 
lining displaced by incorrect felling, might cause a bad fitting 
sleeve. 

XII. Faults Caused Through the Collar Being Cut Incor- 
rectly or Handled in a Wrong Way. 

The collar, although in size and looks the most unimportant 
part of the coat, nevertheless plays an important role. It is, in 
many cases, the main cause if a garment does not fit. 

The collar is the soul of the coat. This seemingly bold asser- 
tion is fully justified. Only with a well-fitting collar can one 
accomplish a good-fitting coat. On the other hand, through a 
faulty one, even if the coat fits well otherwise, the right position 
of all parts to each other will not be correct, resulting always in 
considerable faults. 

Perhaps, on account of its insignificance, the cutter will not 
pay enough attention to it, and will leave the work to the tailor, 
who very seldom understands the right way of cutting a collar. 
To instruct a tailor how a collar is cut in each case, or to add a 
correct collar model to each coat, is often neglected as being 
unimportant. This will not take up as much time as usually is 
supposed, but would save the cutter and the tailor much time 
and trouble, and simplify the task. Often, if things do not come 
out right, alterations must be made, which consume hours of 
work. Therefore the addition of a correctly cut collar model is 
recommended the more, because when cutting not only the length 
of the lapels and the form of the neck hole, but also the carriage 
and the shoulder form of the respective customer might be taken 
into consideration. 

But how are things really? There are many shops which 
boast only of one or two collar models, and these are used for 
cutting the collar for each coat. Therefore, when handling 
things in this way, a correct cut collar can be accomplished very 
seldom. 



But not only through a faulty cut of the collar, but also by 
handling it in a wrong way (even in case it is cut correctly) an 
otherwise well-fitting garment will be brought out of order. 
This will be caused less often intentionally than by carelessness 
and inexperience of the tailor. 

To prove this statement, the following explanations will be 
devoted to the faults which will result through incorrect cutting, 
wrong handling and faulty setting on of the collar. The causes 
will be defined and the alterations, which in each single case 
have to be made, will be illustrated as thoroughly as possible. 

I will remark right away that it is not my intention to teach 
collar construction. This belongs to an instruction in. cutting. 
The following explanations will be restricted to, calling your 
attention to several points which have to be considered carefully 
when cutting and handling the collar. In the chapter, "The 
Judging of the Faults and What Has to be Done to Remedy 
Them," I illustrated rules commonly referring to this. The 
same refer also to the faults which are caused through the collar 
in particular. 

Small irregularities, caused by faulty handling, like a collar 
too hollow in front, or too long, or if the latter stands higher on 
the sides than in the back, will be noticed on the collar itself, 
and can easily be changed there, supposing that in general the 
coat fits well. 

Things will be different if larger faults resulted from an ill- 
fitting collar. In this case the collar will always look well, but 
on other places cross wrinkles, surplus width and discomfort 
will appear. Supposing the coat, when trying on, appears cor- 
rect on those faulty places. The inexperienced will be con- 
fronted with a riddle, the solution of which will appear to him 
very difficult, although it should not take him very long to find 
out that the cause of the ill-fitting must lay entirely somewhere 
else. 

One can only avoid these faults by being very careful when 
preparing and 'handling the collar, and giving the tailor the 
necessary and exact instructions and seeing to it that the same 
will be followed correctly. If this is not done, similar faults 

61 



69. 



will always happen again, despite all precautions. The same are 
mostly the result of the carelessness and inexperience of the 
tailor, who will spoil the garment entirely without any bad inten- 
tion. Everybody will easily un- 
t derstand that these inconveni- 
ences, in most cases, are the 
result of a superficial try on. 
When trying on, one will not 
look after the collar carefully, 
and very often any collar, 
which is just at hand will be basted on, whether it fits in the 
neck hole of the coat or not. Therefore I will give some hints 
referring to the fitting, but which only concern the collar. 

If, like many colleagues are accustomed to, a perfect ready 
undercollar will be basted on when fitting, this can only be of 
advantage if same is handled with the right care. If, however, 
out of habit, the collar is basted on without thought and the 
tailor does not care whether it fits well or not, he will be easily 
deceived. 

An under collar, only cut out of canvas and only superficially 
shaped, will not accomplish its purpose, but it will always be 
good to put it on only temporarily, but to rip it off after the 
garment is put on. Such a collar only prevents the seams from 
opening when the coat is tried on. But in this case the shoulder 
seams shall only be basted to the neck hole, the eventual outlet 
in the neck hole must remain open. Also the canvas must be cut 
in on several places, as far as the outlet goes, in order to avoid 
any tightness around the neck. How a garment fits on the neck 
can be judged better without a collar, as a faulty collar is of 
great disadvantage to the coat. 

If, then, such a try on is pinned in all remaining parts and 
the neck hole correctly marked (the best way would be to 
stretch the collar on the customer), fasten the completely fin- 
ished and shaped undercollar at the neck hole as it should be 
done on the ready-made coat. Small irregularities at the collar 
can be remedied at the same time. If the trying on is done in 

62 



this way, one is able to judge the causes of the various faults 
more safely and can avoid many alterations entirely. 

Now before approaching the right theme I will remark that 
I take it for granted the coat fits well without the faulty collar. 
First I will illustrate the small faults, which show direct on the 




70-a 



70-b 



1 - *jfe 

collar and which are caused by incorrect cutting. Figure 69, 
full lines, shows a collar cut correctly according to the neck hole. 
On this the center seam must run accurately, in a right angle to 
the collar stand. If the latter will be stretched from below c to 
the center seam on each side so much that it can be laid round 
the same way, as shown in Figure 70-a, this will be entirely suffi- 
cient. This will amount to about V* to 2 inches, according to the 
formation of the shoulder, which has to be considered when mak- 
ing the collar. The collar must be stretched only on the outside 
edge ; more for square shoulders ; for sloping less than for nor- 
mal ones ; but this stretching must only be extended to the point 
where the collar stand begins, which is illustrated clearly in 
Figure 70-a. The breakline must not be pressed in (when the 
figure is normal), as the neck does not become narrow upwards, 
but is formed cylindrically, so that a shortening of the breakline 
is not only unnecessary, but entirely contrary to any rule. For 
persons who stoop the collar can be 'pressed in a little more in 
the back. Notwithstanding this, many tailors will press all col- 
lars too much in the breakline, on account of which the outer 
edge also must be stretched a good deal, so that a form like Fig- 
ure 70-b results. 

Through such an excessive and faulty handled collar the 

63 



entire coat will be deformed and faults will result as illustrated 
on Figures 80, 81 and 82. I will refer to this later on. A similar 
bad habit of many tailors is the hollowing out of the back seam 
at (k), regardless if same is done as on Figure 71 or as on Fig- 
ure 72. Through this the breakline becomes shortened, but the 



71. ' 72. 



result will be entirely different than expected. In both cases 
the breakline will show a deepening in the center, which cannot 
be removed, either by setting or by pressing it higher. Only if 
the center seam of the collar is cut in a right angle to the collar- 
stand (see the full line m, k, 1), this fault will be remedied. On 
Figure 69 one will see marked a little lengthening of the collar 
from (k) to (m), but this very small addition must only be put 
on at the' outer edge, and only in case of heavy goods, which do 
not give and which have to be used for the undercollar. The 
intention to make the collar close fitting at the back of the neck 
is a good one, but the result will be that same is very often cut in 
the center seam in such a way that the collar stand, extending 
from (1) to (k) will be shortened, but the breakline beginning 

at (k) will be widened to (m) (see alteration on Figure 

73). Such a collar will only have the right height on the sides, 
but will lay too low in the back. This fault cannot be remedied, 
either by pressing or by setting the collar higher, but only by 
bringing the center seam in a right angle to the breakline, like 
the full lines on Figure 73 show. The opposite : the collar will 
show an elevation in the center seam and will be up too high in 
the neck, will appear if the center seam is cut in the opposite 

way, like the marked lines in Figure 73. Now, what 

is the cause of these signs ? As already mentioned on another 

64 




m 



73. 



page, the neck is formed like a cylinder, and extends, with the 
exception of a slight enlargement at the connection with the 
shoulder, straight upwards all around. As on a well-fitting 

collar, the breakline must sur- 
round the neck in the back part 
and on the sides in even height. 
The same must extend in a right 
angle to the center seam of the 
neck, also to the center seam of 
the collar. If the center seam of the collar runs to the breakline 
obtuse or acute angled, so the breakline, which always must 
have its place in a right angle to the center of the collar, will 

find its place by itself and will lay 
higher or deeper, according to the di- 
rection of the center seam. Figure 73 
shows the changed break lines as a re- 
sult of a faulty cutting of the collar, 
above and below of the right break- 
line c to k. 

Figure 74 shows a very common 
fault. 

Here the breakline of the collar 
does not extend in the same direction 
with the breakline of the lapel. The 
collar has not the right run, as the 
tailor says. The cause of this fault is 
a collar which does not fit in the neck 
hole. It has, as commonly expressed, 
not enough collar stand. The lower 
edge of the collar stand has been cut 
too straight at the place in question, 
compared with the rounding of the 
neck hole. If such a too flat formed collar is put in the more 
hollow neck hole, the breakline will be too long in front. 

Usually the tailor knows only one way to alter this : by iron- 




74. 



65 



ing in the breakline excessively to get rid of the surplus length. 
Just then the hollow' part will result. How can this fault be 
remedied? Simply by replacing the missing goods above the 
breakline in another way. To form the neck hole better at the 
faulty place will hardly be possible, because this place very sel- 
dom has an outlet ; therefore nothing else is left but to place the 

collar correctly. If the old one is 
wide enough in front it can be 
used again, if one does not prefer 
to make an entirely new one, 
which naturally takes more time 
75. and wbrk. 



As already mentioned before, the hollow part, which the 
breakline of the collar shows in front, results in not enough col- 
lar stand. That means, not wide enough at the place in question. 

The collar, Figure 75, marked with large, full lines, is the 
incorrect cut, and to this had to be added at the lower edge what 
was too hollow in the breakline, as is illustrated on the figure 
by a thin line. Nobody would think of piecing the collar on this 
place, therefore we must look for another way to replace the 
missing goods in order to have a well fitting collar, without mak- 
ing an entirely new one. To understand without difficulty how 
to arrange this, we will have to cut a model of the altered collar 
and lay same on the original (nonfitting) collar, as the broken 
lines on Figure 75 show. If the collar is changed exactly like 
this model, it has to be cut away in front at (g), extending a 
little above the line below (c), also at the lapel at (m), extending 
to the front as far as the little crossed point. 

In front at the lapel the missing goods has to be pieced in 
case the collar on this place should not remain wide enough ; also 
in the center of the back from (m) to (1) and from (1) to the 
front. But to do all this would be just as troublesome as the 
construction of a new collar. Therefore we must try to simplify 
the alteration, and I will give the directions, as follows : 

The cutting of the lower edge at (g) is absolutely necessary; 
the piecing in front at the lapel only conditionally. The collar 

66 



in the back might remain entirely unchanged the way the full 
lines indicate. The eventual necessary piecing at the center 
seam and below at (1) is of such a trifling nature that it might 
as well remain undone. By stretching the outer edge and shap- 
ing the back part, the collar in this place can be easily brought in 
right shape again. By doing this the alteration will be more 
simple and there is also a possibility of using the old collar 

again. To decide the de- 
\ gree necessary for the cut- 

ting off of the front part 
without cutting an extra 
collar model for each case, 
the following rule will 
have to be accepted as sta- 
tionary : 

If the breakline of the 

collar shows a rounding in 

front, the collar has to be 

cut away at (d), amount- 

76. ingto the size of the hollow 

at (g) double this amount, 

extending almost to below (c), and the back part has to be 

stretched. 

Very often the latter manipulation is unnecessary. After I 
have shown those faults and their alterations, which are caused 
by incorrect cutting of the collar, I will explain those which are 
caused by a faulty setting on of the collar. A collar put on too 
long will only stand off around the neck, otherwise it will not 
influence the correct fit of the coat in any way. The most simple 
way to remedy this will be to rip off the collar and set it up cor- 
respondingly shorter. As a rule, however, the tailor will make 
this alteration as a final resort, but will first try to remove the 
length by pressing in the breakline. This will help for the time 
being. But after some time the same fault will show again. If 
not, which would be against any rule, the breakline would be 
drawn in by an edge stay. 




67 



In both cases the breakline will become short and will fit 
close to the neck, but the outer edge will show too much length, 
which will not beautify the coat. Therefore one should try the 
radical cure in the first place and not cause unnecessary work 
and waste time through small, insufficient alterations. 

I will mention here at the same time another very common 
fault : the standing off of the collar on one side only. A collar 
set on too long on one side will very seldom be the cause of this, 
as it is difficult to imagine that a tailor should be so careless in 
his work as to set on one half of the collar longer than the other. 

Nevertheless, it might happen once in a while, and before set- 
ting on the collar shorter on one side, one should ascertain if in 
fact it is shorter there than on the other one. 

If one by measuring both parts is convinced that the collar 
has an even length on both sides it will be evident that the fault 
must lay somewhere else. 

In many cases the same originates on the shoulder, which is 
misf ormed. This causes the coat to be too tight at the shoulder 
points, but around the neck it will appear too wide. Although 
it does not belong here, nevertheless I will explain shortly how 
to alter this fault — shown on Figure 76, with dotted lines — but 
I will emphasize that this is not the fault of the collar. 

The front shoulder has to be brought closer to the neck, 
amounting to about one-third as much as the breakline at the 
side in question appears to be too long. But at (k) must be 
shortened about half the amount that the shoulder was straight- 
ened. At the armhole at (1) to be lengthened the entire amount 
of the excessive length of the breakline and made smaller corre- 
spondingly. The shortened neck hole must then be stretched as 
much as necessary so that it regains its previous shape and 
length and permits the collar to fit in without any change. 
Through this stretching of the neck hole the front shoulder will 
be turned around and will direct the width necessary for the 
protruding shoulder to the right place. Necessarily the padding 
must be changed, too, and it must be resorted to a wedge as same 
cannot be shaped as the goods. 

68 



The standing off of the collar on one side only shows when 
the coat is buttoned. If it is opened it can scarcely be noticed. 
The surplus length at the breakline effects a falling back of the 
front part in question in a higher degree and will form in front 
of the armhole a pleat becoming larger further down. 





77 



78 



The faulty front part will look as in Figure 31, which shows 
a front part falling back on account of not sufficient shoulder 
height. 

Now I will explain the faults, for which the collar is respon- 
sible, but which will not be evident on the collar. In the first 
place there is the collar, cut correctly, but set on too short. 
Before explaining the irregularities caused by such a collar, I 
will again illustrate how a correctly cut and shaped collar has to 
be set on. For a normal figure it has to be sewed on smoothly 
across the back part — that is, in such a way that the width of 



the back part in the neck hole shall remain the same as cut. 
From the shoulder seams to about VA inches to the front it has 
to be sewed on so full at the front part that the neck hole, if it 
has not already been done before, can be expanded so much in 
this place as the form of the shoulder requires to produce a 





79 



80 



smooth-fitting collar. To the front it also has to be set on 
more smoothly. For a stooped figure it must be held rather 
tight. For an erect figure rather full. 

Figures 77, 78, 79 show a well fitting coat in front, side and 
back view. The collar is sewed on correctly and surrounds the 
neck in the back part to the shoulder in even height. From these 
it runs in a correct line to the breakline. 

The front and back part are without wrinkles and the front 
skirt edge shows a perpendicular direction. The garment has, 
so to say, the right aplomb. 



70 



Figures 80, 81 and 82 illustrate the result of a collar set on 
too short or too short in the breakline. As shown on Figure 80, 
one would not think that the collar was to blame for the irregu- 
larities which the garment shows. It fits well around the neck, 
and breakline and lapel appear sufficiently long enough. But 
we observe on the garment itself bias wrinkles extending from 
the shoulder point to below the arm. The front parts are moved 
up at the breast and cross wrinkles appear. Also the garment 





is too narrow across the breast and causes tightness, and further 
presses in the armhole in front and below. The sleeve, although 
having the right length, becomes too short and looks as if it has 
been set in too high in front and too deep in the back. 

In the wiaist the garment stands off in front and the skirt 
expands too much. Fig. 81. It does not look much better in the 
back part. The back appears to be too long and throws wrinkles 
right across the shoulders as if the front shoulder is too 
short. In the back at the armhole the garment does not fit close 

71 



/ 



and appears too wide, just as if it had to be taken in consider- 
ably. Below in the waist it lays on too tight and bias wrinkles 
show, extending from these to the front of the armhole. The 
skirt also loses its right position and laps over in a way, as pre- 
viously mentioned and illustrated on Figure 82. All these indi- 
cated faults originate from a collar set on too short, although 
correctly cut and shaped. But if same has been shaped too 
round, as Figure 70 (b) shows, it will cause two more faults, 
besides the previously described. If one turns up such a collar, 
the collar at the shoulder seam of the front part neck hole 
buckles. It looks as if the neck hole in this place has been 
stretched too much. (See Fig. 81.) 

In the center of the back part the collar lays deeper than on 
the sides (see Fig. 82), which resulted because through excessive 
stretching the outer edge became too long, consequently the back 
center of the collar came out of its right position and formed as 
Figure 73 shows, with lines. 

Even if such a collar is sewed on correctly, so that in fact it 
is long enough in the neckhole, as a correctly shaped collar has 
to be, yet as a result of the excessive expanding to the front it 
will become too long and move out of its place. As the surplus 
length cannot be worked in, this will cause the collar to become 
too short in general. 

The tailor or cutter, who does not possess sufficient experi- 
ence and therefore will not be able to judge that all these faults 
originate from a too short collar or a too short breakline, will 
be shocked when he sees what became of the garment. 

As he does not know wiiat to do, he will alter all over. Then 
if he sees that this does not help in any way, there is nothing 
else left but to try another alteration. The final result always 
will be a totally spoiled garment. 

If a garment shows the above described faults, first of all the 
collar on both sides has to be ripped so far that it stays sewed 
on from 2-3 inches only at the back part. 

Then pull the garment in shape at all parts of the body and 
you will be astonished to notice that all wrinkles and discom- 
forts have disappeared. Then put the collar to the neck hole. 

72 



as it should be, or pin it down, and you will see how much same 
should be lengthened or where a change must be made. 

In closing this chapter, permit me to remark that it is abso- 
lutely wrong if a tailor is under the impression that, when a gar- 
ment does not go high enough to the neck, or does not fit close at 
the neck, a short set on collar will accomplish this. This is en- 
tirely erroneous. If the garment does not show the right fit 
around the neck without a collar, a short set on collar will not 
accomplish this either. 

This and also one too much shaped will only disarrange the 
fit of a coat. 



73 



Vests 



After having discussed quite a number of faulty skirtcoats, 
coats and overcoats, I will now discuss faults very common on 
vests. 

Every tailor considers the vest a garment which seems very 
easily fitted. This is right. However, there is a large difference 

between an ordinary or a really well fit- 
ting vest ; a difference which very often 
is not considered at all or not under- 
stood. It is very essential that a cor- 
rect fitting vest be comfortable, despite 
that the front parts must fit close every- 
where and not show any wrinkles. As 
with a coat, when tailoring a vest, cut- 
ting and workmanship must go hand in 
hand. If this is not the case, faults will 
result which can be avoided when one is 
only a little careful. Mostly those are 
only of a trifling nature which have 
been overlooked when trying on, but are 
liable to spoil the garment or cause dis- 
comfort. The vests hereafter discussed 
will have the collars marked in the 
front part, not in the back part. 

I. Vest Not Close Enough at the Bottom. 

The first case will show a fault, very common on low cut 
vests, the alteration of which will cause many tailors much 
aggravation. This is a vest which does not fit close at the bot- 
tom, otherwise correct everywhere (Fig. 83). This is very dis- 
agreeable, because on account of the buttonholes a correction of 
the front edge is not possible. 

The right way to remedy this would be With the help of a V, 
Figure 84x, whereby the surplus width would be taken away. 
However, the V must be made in a right angle, otherwise one 

74 




side of the edge would become longer, making necessary a regu- 
lation of the lower edge, which certainly must be avoided. This 
alteration is simple and sure and does not require much time. 




If it is not possible to alter with a V, for instance on fancy vests, 
there is only one possibility to alter it in another way by turning 
the front part. For this purpose open the vest, when it is put 
on, so that only the upper buttonhole remains buttoned. Put the 
front parts together, so that the vest fits close at the bottom, and 
mark on the right part how much must be taken away. Then 
rip back and front apart, take the one front part and place it on 
the other, as in Figure 84, so that both meet each other at (a) 
and the top one below at (b) extends half as much as the part 
which has to be taken away. 

Now mark the entire vest according to the top part and you 
will see where to alter and the kind of alteration which is neces- 

75 



sary. Then the front partwill have the form indicated by the full 
line (b-a) and the broken lines (a-c), (e-d), (d-e), (e-f), (f-b). 
The alteration at the neck hole is not difficult. However, it will 
be necessary to piece at the armhole at (d), in the side at (e) 
and at the lower edge from (f-b). This is possible at the two 
previously mentioned places and is done rather often, but not at 
the lower edge (f-b), the same has to remain as it is. To avoid 
the piece at the shoulder becoming too large, it is advisable to 
make same a little smaller, see the + + + + lines, (g-h). This 
is no fault and does not influence the fit of the vest. On the con- 
trary, a vest with a smaller shoulder fits better, many customers 
preferring to wear such a one. The extending part at the back 
shoulder must be taken away at the armhole, Figure 84, the 
+ + + + lines (i-k) . Then the vest has to be put together in 
such a way that the points (c), (g) and (e) of the front part 
meet point 2 (i) and (1) of the back part, but what is too long 
on this has to be taken away across the bottom. This alteration, 

although troublesome, and consuming 
much time, will regulate the vest at (b) , 
but a trifle will be lost at the side length, 
which cannot be helped. 

II. Vest Too Tight at the Bkeast. 

Figure 85 shows a fault, also very 
common. The vest is too tight across 
the breast and on each side a wrinkle 
appears, becoming larger towards the 
armhole. 

If one opens the vest at the top far 
enough, so that same fits smooth at the 
breast and at the armhole, the front 
part will go back and will stand apart at 
the breast extending to the bottom, and 
surplus width will show under the arms. 
Two causes might produce this fault: 
either the front shoulder has been put 




85 



76 



too much to the neck at the beginning or has been brought in this 
wrong position by a too short set on collar or by ironing back 
the resulting width into the armhole. The essential point is to 




m; 



gain the necessary width at the breast edge, which will be accom- 
plished easily if the front part gets its correct shoulder position. 
One has to crook the shoulder as much as necessary, Figure 86, 
(c, d), piece it, see the — . — . — . lines, and sew the shoulder seam 
together so that the points 2 and 3 of the back part now come 
to point (c) and (d) of the front part. 

But if one will not piece at the front shoulder until (d), 
same will become a little smaller, which, as mentioned before, 
does not matter, but then the back shoulder must also become 
smaller, by taking away at the armhole the surplus width, Fig- 
ure 86, the + + + + lines (i-k). 

77 



Any expert will easily see the effect of this arrangement of the 
shoulder. The entire front part moves more to the front, with 
the result that the surplus width below the arms replaces the 
missing goods at the breast and that the tightness and wrinkles 
at the armhole, which were observed at this place, disappear. 

III. Vest Too Long at the Front Shoulder. 
Figure 87 shows another fault very common on vests. 

The breakline becomes too long in 
front and farther below the vest will show 
cross wrinkles. As a result it will appear 
too short at the bottom; otherwise the fit 
is correct. 

Certainly one has to imagine the coat 
worn over it, otherwise the collar would 
stand aw^ay in the back, resulting in sur- 
plus length. The cause of this is, that the 
front part is too long compared with the 
back part. In our case it will be sufficient 
to rip open the side seams and to move the 
front part deeper accordingly, Figure 88, 
so that point (e) of the front part meets 
point (m) of the back part. By doing this 
the length in the cross wrinkles will be 
directed to the bottom! and the vest will be 
longer accordingly, about 1 inch. The ex- 
tension up in the back part, Figure 88 
(m-1) , must be cut away extending to (k) . 
Below the front part is permitted to protrude. In case the back 
part shall extend to the lower edge of the front part, a new back 
has to be cut to correspond with the length of the front part. 

The buckle, if there is one, in many cases has to be set accord- 
ingly deeper, so that it fits again accurately in the waist line, 
which shows plainly on Figure 88, with broken lines. 

I might recommend to put a small vent on each side about 2 
inches long. 

7S 




Very often same will not be considered seriously and yet it is 
of great advantage and should be on each vest. 

Also of much advantage is wedging in the back part, Figure 
88z, which, like the little side vents, only has the purpose to 




facilitate, when sitting down, the yielding of the vest above the 
hip. 



IV. Gaping of the Collar on Low Cut Vests When 
Sitting Down. 
Very often customers will complain that the collar on low 
cut vests, when sitting down, will be too long and gape, Figure 
89. When standing and walking the vest fits correctly. 

Many of my colleagues are not able to explain the cause of 

79 



this fault, therefore I think it is my duty to give an explicit 
explanation. When sitting down almost everybody will neglect 
his carriage, the body bends a little forward and collapses to a 
certain degree, the shoulders will stick up and be brought 
forward. 

This will not only change the shoulder position, but also the 




proportion of the front and back form ; the first will be shorter ; 
the latter, however, a little longer. 

Now the vest will always be tried on in a standing position, 
and in order to obtain a good fit all unnecessary width at the 
shoulder and below the arm will be removed. But if the cus- 
tomer sits down and gets in the position just described, then it is 
self-explained that as a result of the changed carriage, also of 
the insufficient length of the back shoulder, the vest must become 
too long in the front shoulder. 

This length would be noticed through the standing off of the 

80 



collar which does not fit close to the neck (on the side and in the 
back), but which the top garment, correctly fitting at this place, 
does not permit. Therefore same shows farther below, caus- 
ing the gaping of the collar. 

To prevent this, first of all, it will be necessary to lengthen 

the front shoulder a trifle at the 
armhole and to stretch it out suffi- 
ciently in front. 

Besides the increased height of 
the shoulder, the vest has to be 
made wider on each side below the 
arm, a trifle more than the measure 
requires. In order to replace, at 
least to a certain extent, the too 
short back shoulder, when sitting 
down, there should be more width 
under the arm. 

Consequently the vest will not 
fit close at the shoulder and in the 
back ; also below at the armhole, but 
it is just the effect to have the same 
smooth fitting there which will pro- 
duce the here illustrated fault. 
The alteration can be accom- 
plished without being noticed, by setting in a new back part and 
making the necessary additions, required at the former, Figure 
90-3 (p-2) and (1-m-n). 

V. Lengthening of a Too Short Vest. 

In answering the question as to whether a vest is too short, 
the opinion of the tailor will not always be considered authorita- 
tive. Very often the customer has a different opinion, which 
must be recognized out of necessity. 

Therefore it might be superfluous to illustrate this fault 
figuratively. Even the most careful cutter will have had the 
experience that a vest might become too short. This will be 
unpleasant in every case. However, it will only be a fault which 




81 



can easily be corrected. Every vest can be lengthened in a 
simple way, but the customer must give his consent, that the 
opening of the vest and the armhole will lay a little deeper than 
before. 

Suppose the vest is about one inch too short. Naturally the 




missing goods cannot be pieced on below. Consequently there is 
only one way open, which will be the lengthening of the front 
and back shoulder (the back part also at the neck hole)* amount- 
ing to about 1 inch. Thereby the entire vest moves down and 
obtains the required length. 

However, this will require a new back part, because only in 
an exceptional case one would dare to piece the missing at the 

82 



front and back. The new back part in the neck hole must be 
about one inch higher than the old one (Fig. 91-1), (n), (o), but 
the distance (n), (o), must be the same as from (1) to (2). Also 
in the armhole at (3), about one inch more length is required, 
and after this the new shoulder, shaping from (p) to (o), has 
to be finished. 

In order not to piece the front shoulder, about one inch, 
which had to be added at this place — the marked and again 
crossed lines, (d), (r), (q), must be added in addition to it at 
the back part. 

But one must be careful that the neck hole, rounding (o), 
(r), and the armhole, (p), (s), will be brought forward cor- 
rectly, which can easily be accomplished by applying the front 
shoulder. 

Now the front part will remain as it is. However, the collar 
on each side extending to the back will be about one inch longer 
(Fig. 91), the dotted lines. 



83 



Pants 



Now we come to the last part of this book, illustrating faulty 
pants. It will be necessary, before showing how to avoid these, 
to give some explanations. 

To make a really well-fitting pair of pants is no easy task. 
Every tailor will be convinced of that. 

Besides a correct and comfortable fit, the various shapes, 
which largely are influenced by frequently changing styles ; also 
the size and the position of the lower extremities, will have to be 
taken into consideration. 

There are very many different styles of pants ; close fitting, 
very wide, etc. Also the deviations from the normal size of the 
legs are often very considerable. Furthermore, the formation 
of the legs and position of the feet. This has to be considered 
not only when cutting, but also the tailoring in each single case 
must be a different one, conforming with the deviation from the 
regular way. 

However, many tailors will not pay the necessary attention 
to this matter, and, therefore, it is easily explained why pants 
show more faults than other garments. 

Naturally I cannot illustrate all faults which might show on 
pants. Therefore I will restrict myself to illustrate those only 
which appear very often on a narrow and a wide pair of pants. 

I. Pants, Which Do Not Conform With the Crease. 

Eight at the start I illustrate a pair of pants which cannot 
be changed any more. The purpose of this illustration is to call 
attention to a fault, Which shows very often on pants with a 
striped pattern, but which many tailors do not consider a fault. 

Figure 92 — the full lines — show that the back part of the 
pants is cut from the goods in a bias direction. Consequently, 
when the pants are ready, the stripes run irregular, ending 
pointed at the top and bottom, making the figure, when seen 
from the back view, bowlegged. (Fig. 93.) This has a very 
ugly effect and does not show good taste. 

84 



If one asks, "Why is it advantageous to cut the back part in 
this bias direction?" the answer frequently will be, "The piec- 
ing in the stride will become smaller and the back part can be 




92 



more easily shaped, especially on narrow pants, in the knee and 
at the calf, because there the goods is on the bias." 



85 



But these apparent advantages are without importance and 
do not correct the looks of the garment. 

As a consequence of the bias direction of the back part the 
pants will cause discomfort, because the side seam; from the 

knee upwards and the seat seam will 
come out nearly threadstraight, whereby 
the part above the seat will not have suffi- 
cient . elasticity. Then nothing will make 
the pants look better and produce a more 
comfortable fit as when those two seams 
are cut more bias. The inseam, however, 
has been cut more threadstraight. 

The bias position of the inseam is of 
disadvantage and will very often cause too 
much stretching out when working on it, 
resulting in an ill-fitting pair of pants. 

How to cut out the back part of the 
pants in a correct way is previously men- 
tioned and illustrated on Figure 92, with 
broken lines. 

The aplomb line, which must run along 
the middle of the leg, lies in this way, 
parallel with the stripes of the goods. 
Same is the case with the front part of the 
pants. When the pants are ready, the di- 
rection of the stripes in front and in the 
back will be a perpendicular and entirely 
correct one. 




II. Uncomfortableness of the Pants When Bending Down 
and Sitting, Despite Surplus Width in the Seat. 

Figure 94 shows a pair of pants which throws wrinkles 
straight down at the seat extending to the stride. Therefore it 
is too wide at these places. 

Despite this the customer cannot bend or sit down without 
inconvenience. Also each movement of the leg to the front will 



86 



produce an uncomfortable tightness from the seat to the knees, 
consequently the front part will be pulled up. 

As already mentioned before, a well-fitting garment should 
also be comfortable. Pants especially require this, and I think 

it necessary to illustrate how to accom- 
plish it. Many tailors will not be able to 
accomplish comfortableness, and I am 
glad to help along with suggestions. 

For instance, many tailors, also many 
customers, are under the impression that 
in order to have a pair of pants comfort- 
able, the same have to be loose fitting in 
the stride; further, must have a large 
diameter in the seat (large stride piece), 
and finally must have a rather large addi- 
tion to the width of the seat. But this is 
not the case. To the contrary, the cus- 
tomer, when trying on such a garment, 
will notice with consternation that he can- 
not bend or sit down in a comfortable way, 
although surplus width exists in the seat 
and at the thigh. 
It is an accomplished fact, and it should always be taken as 
a rule, that the comfort and good fit of a pair of pants, when 
moving around, can only be effected if the pants fit as narrow 
and close as possible in the stride and the position in the back 
part of the pants is a bias one (directed to the side). But the 
latter is connected with certain conditions, which I will illus- 
trate now. 

Regarding the close fit in the stride, I will remark that even 
if the pants, when trying on the first time, appear to be too long 
in the inseam, this length will gradually diminish, after being 
worn a couple of times. 

Every experienced tailor will have observed that pants, 
which were correct when delivered, became too short after worn 
three or four times. Therefore, every tailor should consider it 
his duty, when measuring, not to measure the inseam too short, 

87 




which cannot happen if the customer is requested to pull up the 
pants close in the stride. The tailor must insist on this, even if 
the customer should claim that the pants feel uncomfortable, as 

he will forget and not believe 
that a pair of pants, which 
seemed to be long enough when 
delivered became too short 
when worn a few times. 

A rather large piece in the 
stride will also have several 
disadvantages : The seat seam 
will be too hollow and the 
surplus width will show at the 
thigh as wrinkles. If, then, in 
order not to become a too large 
stride piece, the back part is 
cut too straight, the garment 
will become uncomfortable, 
even if, as is done in most 
cases, the missing width is 
added at the seat seam in a 
larger degree than would be 
necessary. 

When walking, bending and 
sitting the seat will not gain in 
width, but will only extend in 
length. If, therefore, a pair of 
pants has to be comfortable at 
this place, a larger length, but 
never a larger width, will be 
necessary, and this is the case 
with the pants, which concerns 
us here. 

Fig. 95, full lines, shows the 

faulty cut back part and the 

lines, which will accomplish the neces- 

If a model is at hand, cut on this 




95. 



alteration in — . — . — .- 
sary lengthening of the seat 



88 



from (p) to (q), (i) to (q), 2/3 of the rise, (a-p) about 1 inch 
more, but in such a way that the parts at (q) still will be to- 
gether, move the back part in the seat seam 1 to 2 inches apart 

and fill the vacant space by pasting under 
a piece of paper. If a model is not at 
hand, use point (q), as turning point and 
draw from (i) to the left and from (a) 
upwards little arcs. Then at the arc 
from (a) to (aa-3) one has to go higher 
about VA to 2 inches. Then measure the 
width of the back part (a to 1) from 
(aa) in the arc left from (i) (point ii) 
and correct (p) with (aa), (aa) with 
(ii) and (ii) with (q), as the sketch 
shows plainly. 

Through this manipulation the seat 
seam will receive more length, which will 
diminish towards the side. The corner 
at the side seam at (q) must not be filled 
out, as same is always the cause of cross 
wrinkles, as shown on Figure 96. 

These wrinkles, however, which are covered by the coat and 
consequently are not apparent, can only remain in their place 
and not fall down lower if no unnecessary width exists across 
the seat and at the thigh. This surplus width may be removed 
at the places in question. See the + + + + lines on Figure 95. 




III. Horseshoe Wrinkles at the Back Part. 

Figure 97 shows a very disagreeable fault, wrinkles forming 
in a round way downwards, which we might call horseshoe 
wrinkles, according to their form, appearing below the seat and 
extending to the knee. 

These only show on wide pants, if the back part has been cut 
out too much on the side, from the knee upwards ; that is, has 
been cut too bias. It is a fact, and many of my colleagues by 



89 



long experience wall have found this out, that the position of the 
back part (at the side seam from the knee, at the seat seam up 
to the Waist line), depends on the width of the pants at the knee. 

When the pants are narrow they must 
be as bias as possible, and become 
straighter when wide in the knee. 

By this bias position the seat seam 
will become longer, which is necessary 
for pants which are close fitting at the 
knees, as was illustrated before. The 
seat will gain in length when walking, 
bending and sitting and, therefore, in 
order to permit these movements, the 
garment has to be sufficiently long at 
the places in question. 



The surplus length will, when the 
customer is not moving, go together in 
wrinkles below the seat, but will be held 
back through the close fit of the gar- 
ment at the thigh and the seat. It will 
fall deeper on wider pants, which, as a 
rule, have also a larger width at the thigh, if the position of the 
back part is as bias as on narrow pants, which are close fitting at 
knee and thigh. 

The surplus width at the knee existing on wider pants will 
make more room for movements. Therefore less length at the 
seat seam is necessary and the position of the upper back part 
will become straight. Many cutting systems do not consider 
this at all and according to a standard rule will first define on 
all sizes the direction of the seat seam and, according to this, 
the setting out at the side seam, with the result that the back 
part on wider pants will have a too bias position in the upper 
part and besides will be too wide at the thigh. 

90 




This will also be the case on these pants. Figure 98, full 

lines, shows the faulty back part. 
The — . — . — . lines show how the 
alteration has to be made. 

Draw, using the knee point as 
a center, from (i) to (a) to the 
right rather short arcs and meas- 
ure on both according to the size 
of the wrinkles, about 1 to 2 
inches. Then connect by these 
points (ii) and (aa) and finish 
the new side and seat in the same 
way as the sketch illustrates. 

The position as a result will 
become more straight; the back 
part above will be shortened ; the 
pants will be more narrow at the 
thigh and the wrinkles will dis- 
appear. But the comfort in sit- 
ting and bending will be influ- 
enced, because the surplus width 
at the knee does not replace en- 
tirely the length lost at the seat 
seam, which, however, cannot be 
avoided, if a pair of wide pants 
shall fit without wrinkles when 
standing and walking. 

If the customer desires real 
comfort when bending and sit- 
ting, this can only be accom- 
plished by making another alter- 
ation in the upper part and in a 
way as shown and illustrated on Figure 95. How an alteration 
of these and the previously described pants is possible cannot 
be said with certainty, but must be left in each case to the judg- 

91 




ment of my colleagues. In case the outlets are sufficient, and if 
one piece more at the back part does not matter — every tailor 
must know himself if his customer will stand for anything like 
that or not — in many cases the pants might be saved, or at least 
the fault be made less visible. 

Before using these described alterations here it will be of 
advantage to study Chapter VII. 



IV. Not Sufficient Abdomen. 

Figure 99 shows faults, very often 
noticed on persons with a large abdo- 
men. 

In the neighborhood of the flanks 
wrinkles will show, beginning at the 
top of the abdomen and diminishing 
to the knees ; besides ray-formed 
wrinkles, which show at the back 
part, extending from the stride, which 
looks as if the width of the stride has 
been cut too narrow. 

The customer will further notice 
a disagreeable pressure at the abdo- 
ment. If, in order to remove this 
pressure, the fly will be opened in 
front, the parts, diminishing down- 
Wards like a wedge, will drag apart. 

Thereby the wrinkles at the front 
part will disappear, but the back part 
at the seat seam will be too wide, as 
much as the parts in front are apart. 

All these faults result because the 
front part lacks sufficient abdomen, 
and because the missing goods in 
front was added to the side or back 
seam in order to get the correct 
widths of abdomen measure, consequently same runs in a more 
straight direction. 




02 



Figure 100 shows, in full lines, the faulty cut, the — . — . — . 
lines show, as it should be. 

A thorough alteration is only possible if the entire pants are 




ripped apart. This has to be done as illustrated on Figures 101 
and 102. The correctly drafted front part model has to be 



93 



K^zLtlrattr^ " tt ° ^ - 




101. 



102. 



*«!iffat=l£?.=!=! -••-" 



94 



the front part by doing this, loses at the side seam (see the dot- 
ted and again crossed line), must be replaced by letting out the 
outlet at the side seam or in the center seam of the back part. 

This alteration will make the pants too 
wide in the waistband and seat, but the 
excess must only be taken away at the 
seat seam, whereby same will receive a 
more bias direction. 

If the side seam of the back part does 
not have an outlet it will be sufficient to 
add a wedge at the side seam to corre- 
spond with the waist measure (see Fig. 
102) + + + + lines. 

Otherwise the alteration in this case 
must be done as before. 

The pants at thigh and knee will be- 
come a little tighter, but this will not in- 
fluence the correct fit in any way. 



V. Cukved Legs, Not Taken Into 
Consideration. 

At the beginning I remarked that the 
legs differ very much in construction and 
form. The most evident forms, knock- 
knee and bowlegged, will be taken into 
consideration, but there are some which 
will be overlooked or not judged rightly. 
Figure 103 offers a proof of this. These pants have the follow- 
ing faults : 

From the back of the leg ugly wrinkles stretch to the front. 
In front of the leg the pants are too tight and consequently stand 
off at the foot. Also often, despite a right measure, the inseam 
will be too short. All these faults resulted because the cutter, 
when measuring, did not notice that the customer had very 
rounded legs in front, which had to be considered when cutting 
and tailoring. 

95 




To alter this, when the garment is ready is a little trouble- 
some. In order to correct this fault the inseams must be ripped 
open entirely, and the side seams as far as the pockets, but it 




104. 



must not be omitted, before starting, to mark front and back 
part a little above the knee, in order to know how the pants were 
sewed together (R and r, Fig. 104). 



96 



Now, in order to get the necessary room in the pants for the 
front rounding of the leg, the front part from (R to Q), at the 
side seam, and from (r to q) at the inseam has to be taken in 
evenly, more or less, according to the size of the rounding and 
the resulting width must be pressed to the center of front part. 

As much as the part taken away amounts to, the front part 
on both sides will become shorter and, when sewing the legs 
together, it should be kept in mind that the points (R and r) 
should come that much above the same named points of the back 
part. (Fig. 104, both x.) 

Through this necessary changing of the combination points 
the front part at the bottom will become too short, and therefore 
as much as necessary must be let out at this place, which is illus- 
trated on my sketch — . — . — . lines (Fig. 104, V and v). 

By doing this the front part will have the necessar} r length 
at the leg, the tightness will cease and the back part will fit 
smoothly. This illustration also has the purpose to call at- 
tention to how necessary it is to first locate the cause of the 
trouble before making alterations, as very often by using the 
scissors in an unnecessary way a garment might be spoiled, 
which otherwise could have been saved. 

VI. Little Cross Wrinkles in the Stride at the 
Front Part. 

Regarding the shaping of the single parts, opinions differ 
very much, opinions which usually are taken as a standard, but 
which cannot be considered such, because they never have been 
probed thoroughly. 

To those belong in the first place the shortening of the in- 
seam at the back part of the stride, by which a better and more 
comfortable fitting shall be accomplished. 

But if one looks closer as a result it will show that the dam- 
age caused is larger than the advantage gained, which usually is 
very dubious. 

The damage is that the stretched out part always goes back 
again, consists of small, ugly cross-wrinkles in the front part, 
which appear even when standing, as Fig. 105 shows clearly. 

97 





105. 



1U(J. 



This means the back part in this pleat has become too short, 
which shortness must be made good by letting out the outlet at 
the seat seam, or, if none is there, by piecing. Figure 106, the 
full lines, show the faulty cut, the — . — . — . lines show how 
the change has to be made. 

VII. Wrinkles at the Back Part From the Stride 

to the Heel. 

Very wrong opinions also exist regarding the shaping of the 
front part. 

According to style, the front part at the bottom shall show 
more or less rounding, which can be accomplished by cutting 
same more or less hollow at this place, stretching at both sides 
and pressing in the center. If the form is rounded regularly, 
the stretching shall amount to only a trifle and shall extend to 
only about 5 to 8 inches from below (including the turnup). 

For more tight fitting pants the stretching has to be done 
more extensively. 

This illustration shows that for the shaping of the front part 
at the bottom the cut always has to be authoritative, which, how- 
ever, not always will be considered, inasmuch as in each case, if 






necessary or not, a too extensive shaping lias been done at the 
place in question. 

But this is not the worst fault ; it only gives many pants, 

especially wide and straight falling 
ones, an ugly appearance at the 
foot. 

The damage will be worse if the 
front part will be stretched not only 
as far as the point marked, but up 
to the knee, or even farther, and 
correspondingly pressed in so that 
the front part put together will 
show a form, as illustrated in Fig- 
ure 107, with full lines, instead of 
having a form like shown in the 
Figure with + + + + lines. This 
will happen oftener than one would 
think, on account of the wrong sup- 
position that through this the pants 
in front and at the bottom will fit 
without wrinkles. If the back part 
is held in too much, which also is 
a very bad habit with many tailors, 
and which scarcely can be eradi- 
cated, the leg, after pressed, will 
appear as shown on Figure 107, 
with full lines. When the pants are 
delivered the customer will over- 
look this, but if he tries the gar- 
ment on the pants will not fit cor- 
rectly, as Figure 108 shows very 
plainly. 

Many a colleague will look help- 
lessly at such a pair of pants, which he cut with the utmost care 
and which now do not fit. 

If one, however, looks at Figure 109 the explanation will be 




107. 



99 



easy. There we see the normal form of the human leg and, in 
full lines, the faulty form of the pants. 

This, if it should correspond with the form of the first one, 
should be formed like shown with + + + + lines. At the body 
the faulty pants will be pulled back with force to the heel and 
wrinkles will be the result, like shown on Figure 108. 





Besides, it will not be close to the instep, loose when walk- 
ing, and in addition will cause tightness from the seat to the 
thigh and knee, which will be more noticed when bending and 
sitting. Also the front part through all these movements will 
be pulled upwards. 



100 



How to remedy these faults is self explanatory, if one reads 
the previous illustrations carefully. Rip the leg seams apart to 
the stride and press the parts again smoothly. 

Then shape same, as much as necessary and sew the legs 
together, without, holding the back part fully. 

Here is the best occasion to add some explanation regarding 
the sewing together of the legs. 

By sewing together, the back part on all points must be held 
in correspondingly at the side seam above hip and seat; also 
above the calf on narrow pants, if the pressing has gone back a 
little. Otherwise, and also at the inseam throughout same must 
be basted on smoothly. If the pants are wide and straight, back 
and front part from the stride have to be basted together 
smoothly at both seams. 

If the pants are close fitting at the knee it is recommended 
to make the front part above both knees a little looser, to gain 
the necessary space for the kneecap and to prevent, when the 
pants are ready, the knees from forcing to the front, whereby 
wrinkles in the knee will be the result. 



VIII. TWISTIXG OF THE PANTS. 

Very often one sees pants which fit correctly in the upper 
part but the seam's at the sides of the leg do not run straight 
down. Either the side seam comes too far to the front and 
inseam too far to the back, or the inseam comes too far to the 
front and the side seam too far to the back. Also often very 
ugly wrinkles appear at the leg, Figures 110 and 111. To judge 
such a fault first of all one has to consider the foot position of 
the customer. If same is regular, only a trifle outward, as fig- 
ures show, and the seams run uneven, the fault has to be ascribed 
to the workmanship, as front and back parts are not sewed to- 
gether correctly. The damage is not so bad as it looks and is 
easy to remedy. Rip the inseam open entirely; the seat seam 
from the front part to the back, at the back part a little bit; 

101 



then place the front part at the back part in the same way as 
when cutting and so that the seams run right. Now place the 
inseam of the back part smoothly on the inseam of the front 
part and you will see that in the first mentioned case that if the 
inseam comes too far to the front the back part moves corre- 
spondingly high in the opposite way; if the inseam comes too 
far to the front the back part will move correspondingly lower. 





410 



in 



Now mark this position exactly on both parts and sew the 
inseams together accordingly. This will necessitate a regulation 
of the seat seam and of the lower edge, which alteration need 
not be explained. 



102 



IX. When Feet Which Stand Outward or Inward 
Excessively Have Not Been Considered. 

Also the seams will not run in a right way if, when cutting, 
it was not taken into consideration that the position of the feet 
was excessively outward, a position which one notices every day 
on scores of people. If the feet are excessively outward the side 
seam will come too far to the front, and the inseam too far back. 
The opposite is the case if the position is excessively inward. 
The inseam will come too far to the front and the side seam too 
far to the back. To remedy these faults a mutual displacing of 
the parts at the inseam will not be sufficient. It is necessary to 
make this alteration in the cut. 



112. 



U 



113. 



A 



An excessive outward foot position will require the letting 
out of the outlet at the inseam, extending to the knee and the 
taking off of the same amount at the side seam, as illustrated 
on Figure 112 with — . — . — . lines. At the front part the 
stretched part at the bottom must be pressed in at the side seam 
and the rounding has to be accomplished from the inseam. 

The opposite alteration is necessary when the feet are set 
excessively inward, Figure 113, the — . — . — . lines ; also the shap- 
ing of the front part must be the opposite one. 

103 



Closing Word 



In concluding this book, may I not be permitted to say a few 
words ? The tailor and cutter of today lives with the time and 
spirit of his day ; he is responsive to new ideas ; he has the ambi- 
tion to satisfy his customer, and he always feels it his duty to 
go to the bottom of all things relating to his profession. You 
never will make a success in life if you are superficial, and it is 
not saying too much that nowadays the art of tailoring is highly 
developed, and a tailor who is not progressive, painstaking and 
conscientious will notice that in time his neighbor gets his trade, 
and will realize his mistake too late. 

This book shows you how to avoid mistakes, and how to cor- 
rect them. Read it carefully, act accordingly; do not be de- 
ceived by thinking that your customer will not notice small 
faults, faults which you notice as a tailor, but which, as you 
think, your customer will not notice. He will, or if not, some- 
body else will call his attention to it. The result will be your 
business decreasing, and the business of your competitor 
increasing. 

Always be wide awake and success in life will be assured to 
you. 



104 



Index 



PAGE 

Preface 3-4 

The Cutting 5-8 

The Outlets 9-12 

The Judging of the Faults and What Has to be Done to 

Remedy Them 13-14 

COATS AND OVERCOATS 

I Back Shoulder Too Short 15-19 

II Front Shoulder Too Long 20-21 

III Back Shoulder Too Long 21-25 

IV Front Shoulder Too Short 25-28 

V Front Part Sagging Back on Account of Not 
Enough Height of the Shoulder 28-32 

VI Collar Stands Off and Coat Hangs Back in the 

Waist 32-34 

VII Insufficient Abdomen 34-38 

VIII Cross Wrinkles in the Back, Starting at the Arm- 
hole 38-42 

IX Overcoat Showing Too Flat and Too Narrow Arm- 
hole and Collar Not Close Fitting 42-45 

X Faulty Skirt 45-51 

XI Faults at the Armhole and Sleeve 52-59 

XII Faults Caused Through the Collar Being Cut Incor- 
rectly or Handled in the Wrong Way 60-73 

VESTS 

I Vest Not Close Enough at the Bottom 74-76 

II Vest Too Tight at the Breast. 76-77 

III Vest Too Long at the Front Shoulder 78-79 

IV Gaping of the Collar in Low Cut Vests When Sit- 
ting Down 79-81 

V Lengthening of a Too Short Vest 81-83 

105 



PANTS 

I Pants Which Do Not Conform With the Crease . . . 84-86 
II Uncomfortableness of the Pants When Bending 
Down and Sitting, Despite Surplus Width in the 
Seat 86-89 

III Horseshoe Wrinkles at the Back Part 89-91 

IV Not Sufficient Abdomen 92-95 

V Curved Legs Not Taken Into Consideration 95-97 

VI Little Cross Wrinkles in the Stride at the Front 

Part 97-98 

VII Wrinkle at the Back Part from the Stride to the 

Heel 98-101 

VIII Twisting of the Pants 101-102 

IX When Feet Which Stand Outward or Inward Ex- 
cessively Have Not Been Considered 103 

Closing Word 104 




013 514 775 8 



